Six hours of intensive workouts – followed by a sumptuous meal and wine. This is a fitness boot camp, Italian-style

I've never been so relieved as when Dan, one of the muscle-bound personal trainers on the Fitscape week-long holiday in northern Italy, said I could bunk off on the first day.

Arriving catatonically knackered, barely able to utter a syllable, I was in terror at the sight of the programme: dawn runs, at least five hours' cardio a day, an alarming amount of "burpees" (squat thrusts). So when Dan said I should "listen to my body", I did just that and slept for 17 hours.

After that, though, on Fitscape there's no escape. Fitscape is sister company to the better-known In:spa (inspa-retreats.com) – but here the focus is on fitness, cardio and strength rather than detoxing and yoga. It is sort of like a boot camp, but without the deprivation – I was going to say without the unpleasantness, but that's not exactly right. You stay in gorgeous hotels. I was at the Rosa Alpina, in the Dolomites, with large rooms, plump cushions, thick duvets, good toiletries, nice view. The food is delicious – big breakfast buffet, vast lunch, afternoon snacks (fruit, nuts and seeds) and tasty, gigantic, three-course dinners. That's three courses including dessert. With bread, if you want it. And wine, if you'll pay for it.

So there are no former soldiers screaming at you to work harder, and no starvation rations, and no chores. You can even choose not to take part in sessions.

But the schedule is intense, and you're encouraged to join in: a run first thing, boxing classes, circuits every day, lessons on running technique, core stability workouts, endless mountain hikes (admittedly through mountains and forests; the area is used for skiing in the winter, when Fitscape also runs skiing-training holidays). From day three to day five I was so stiff I found walking downstairs almost physically impossible, despite the stretching sessions at the end of each day.

It was, though, a lot of fun; especially the dance classes, which were a special request of the group since one of the trainers had spent time being a dancer in the West End show Stomp. His routines, from hip‑hop to 70s disco, were a highlight, if not the hardest workout of the week. In fact all three experienced trainers were excellent, and gave lots of attention to each guest; they worked hard with us on our programme and our motivation. The well-heeled, mostly female guests got on well, and there was much encouraging of each other alongside the racing each other. The last-night celebration was a delight, and all that exercise lent a sort of pheromone-heady euphoria to the whole experience. I loved it.

Some of my fellow guests felt, in fact, that it was too much fun – there is a conflict between all those puddings and all that working out, and the people who enjoyed it most were those who came to exercise, and to get out of their heads, rather than with specific ideas about losing weight. (No one is going to force you to do the classes, and no one is going to tell you not to eat.) Over such an intense week you get a real sense of your fitness improving quite dramatically, and Fitscape is excellent if you want to get your fitness regime back on track: when you've been doing five or six hours' hardcore exercise each day, then squeezing the odd hour in when you get home really doesn't feel like much at all. Do it!

• Fitscape fitness retreats (020-8968 0501, fitscape.co.uk) cost £1,695 per week, including accommodation, all meals, fitness sessions, personal fitness consultation and airport transfers. Locations for 2012 include the Italian Dolomites, Andalucía and Provence. As a special offer, anyone who books before 31 January will receive a free flight to any Fitscape destination

Glass has been made on island in the Venetian lagoon for hundreds of years but now the future is far from clear

"It's like watching a choreographed ballet," says Francesco da Mosto, a Venetian architect who also works as TV presenter. "There is poetry and beauty in the way they work and in their supreme craftsmanship, which has been fine-tuned over the centuries and down through the generations."

Da Mosto is describing the master glassmakers of Murano, an island in the Venetian lagoon. These workers are heirs to a decorative tradition that goes back to at least the 13th century, and which is now in danger.

Recent months have seen a flurry of protests and initiatives as the recession presents yet another challenge for an industry already under siege.

Since 1990, the size of the workforce has shrunk from about 6,000 to less than 1,000.

Last December, on the feast day of Saint Nicholas – the patron saint of Murano glassmakers – about 70% took part in a half-day strike to demand that their employers make changes. The workers were also calling for a plan to revive the industry. Since then numerous solutions have been proposed.

The CISL trade union federation suggested Unesco should give the industry a protected status. But that idea was shot down by the mayor of Venice, Giorgio Orsoni, who noted that the entire lagoon was already a world heritage site.

Diego Ferro, head of the Venetian glass section of the employers' federation, Confindustria, says the industry could benefit from working with artists – as his own company has. Ferro, whose family has lived on the island since 1200, says some of the traditional designs for Murano glass had become dated. "There is the potential for a synergy that adds value to our products," he says.

Two factors are routinely cited as having played a part in the industry's decline. One is the difficulty of recruiting young Venetians to the trade. The work is physically demanding – and uncomfortable. Glassmakers spend much of their day close to kilns heated to 1,400C. The other factor is an influx of cheap, imitation products.

Gianni de Checchi of the craftworkers' federation, Confartigianato, says fake "Murano" from China and eastern Europe takes between 40% and 45% of total sales.

A trademark was created in 1994 and is used by about 50 companies on the island. Last month, RFID (radio frequency identification) technology was used for the first time on a Murano product to guarantee its authenticity.

But while the trademark distinguishes between what has been produced on and off the island, say critics, it fails to differentiate between products that have been handcrafted and those manufactured industrially.

"Those chiefly responsible are the muranesi themselves," says writer Michela Scibilia. "They have never managed to pull together." Scibilia, the co-author of a guide to the island, says that while some glassmaking firms on Murano have invested in research and design to produce work of beauty and quality, others have taken the easy way out – mixing foreign-manufactured imitations with products they sell to tourists.

The tourists reach the island via a chain of intermediaries that starts at a hotel's concierge desk. From there they are steered to a selected water taxi and then to the members of a profession formally recognised by the local authority: the so-called intromettitori – literally "meddlers" – who intercept the tourists when they reach Murano and direct them towards a factory.

Everyone along the line takes a percentage that inflates the end-price. The intromettitori are particularly well-paid – better paid than the master glassmakers at the heart of the industry. "Perhaps more would join the profession if there were not this absurd disparity in incomes," says Scibilia.

It sounds like a gimmick, but a luxury villa in a Roman quarry on a tiny island off Sicily makes inspired use of its setting

Beds in concrete sewer pipes, converted prisons and factories, hotels made from ice or old railway carriages ... over the last decade or so the travel industry has thrown up more and more bizarre ways for us to be accommodated.

These wacky places to stay may be entertaining, but usually they're the accommodation equivalent of fancy dress – funny for five minutes, then you wish you were in something more comfortable. A villa in a quarry sounds like another example of quirk over quality – not really somewhere you'd want to hole up for long.

On the tiny, sleepy Egadi island of Favignana though, staying in a quarry is a stylish prospect. Since Roman times, tufa, a pale limestone was excavated here for buildings across Sicily, and islanders have incorporated the remaining holes and blocks into developments. Now a gorgeous rambling seaside villa, Zu Nillu, built into a disused Roman tufa quarry that has been turned into a spectacular garden, is newly available as a holiday let, exclusively through specialist operator Think Sicily.

Rather than JCBs and rusting shopping trollies, this verdant Escher print of a quarry features small square lawns, shady quadrants full of orange and pomegranate trees, cacti and palms, with raised platforms and sun-terraces interconnected by stone walkways and zigzagging staircases, some several metres above the ground (not a place for young children). Two main buildings sleep eight, and descend from ground level into the sunny garden, but several freestanding monoliths are being turned into extra rooms, and hidden away in secret corners are an open-air bathroom under a cacao tree, and a fabulous pool set into the quarry walls.

It is owned by an Italian actor and film director, Ricky Tognazzi, who has decorated it with unusual antiques (sculptured day beds, Moorish tiling, decorative masonry). His name meant nothing to me, but it became apparent during my stay that Tognazzi is famous – perhaps the Italian equivalent of Mike Leigh … or at least Michael Winner. When I sunbathed on the flat roof of the main house I would hear the excited peal of Italian tourists below, posing for photos outside our celebrity's front door. They could never see my boyfriend or I in our secluded confines behind the high walls or below ground level, but I could excite them further by shouting inside to "Ricky" in my best Eeee-talian scorchio! accent.

Ricky Tognazzi seems to have a rather nice life here, and it was lovely to borrow it for a while. Like a heated up version of the Scilly Isles, the Egadis are incredibly peaceful and undeveloped. Pedalling off on hire bikes with snorkels, books and rolled-up towels in our baskets each morning, we cycled quiet dusty roads around the butterfly-shaped island, which lies four miles off the west coast of Sicily, a short ferry ride from Trapani – plenty of visitors just go for the day. Favignana is only seven square miles (its neighbours, Levanzo and Marettimo, are even smaller and more sleepy than this soporific little place) and flattish but for a few small mountains, and it resembles a half-completed game of Tetris in parts, with oblong pillars and square holes left by the excavations.

Seafront quarries have left fantastic platforms to dive from at Bue Marino, Cala Azzurra, and our own Cala Rossa, the island's (some say the Mediterranean's) most beautiful cove, where Zu Nillu is the only building. On calm days people would flock there – I counted 37 yachts in the bay one day – but the Italian sun-worshippers seemed to follow a secret law that certain weathers called for certain spots, and a breeze made them abandon Cala Rossa for a more sheltered spot.

We took advantage of the culture of conformity, but could always find peace anyway in our private, sea-facing walled garden across the road from the house, where we took lunches of smoky ricotta with peaches and honey, papery salami and Sicilian white wine. We had expected a lot of the food on this old Sicilian fishing island. Tuna and sardines were once hugely important, though much is exported now and tuna has become something of an artisan product – tins of it cost €20 and more in the gift shops. Bottarga, dried tuna roe, featured in many of the islands' delicious pasta dishes (the villa provided a guide to restaurants, such as the highly recommended El Pescadore, and a concierge on call to make bookings) but we were disappointed to see many restaurants used frozen fish in some dishes (marked on the menu), and found most a bit overpriced, charging €15-€20 for a grilled tuna steak. Our favourite find was the cheap arancini shop Girarrosto Rosticceria, where fried rice balls filled with aubergine, cheese or sausage cost a couple of euros. Another brilliant bargain was at the almost Ibiza-esque bars of Monique and Camarillo Brillo in Favignana town, which had free aperitivo buffets in the evening. The stylish Hotel delle Cave (hoteldellecave.it, doubles from €80 B&B) also has a garden in a quarry, and is lovely for drinks and perhaps to stay. But we couldn't resist the lure of a rooftop sundowner in our labyrinthine home – which did almost feel like our home by the end, Ricky's no longer.

• A week at Zu Nillu costs from £2,530 for two or from £5,040 for eight, including cleaning and welcome pack, with Think Sicily (020-3131 2912, thinksicily.com). EasyJet (easyjet.co.uk) flies to Palermo from Gatwick

The Dolomites offer some of the most picturesque skiing in Europe. And now they also have the top-class chefs the setting deserves, writes Gwyn Topham

The truth is, anyone coming to a place this beautiful to ski should happily eat a spag bol and thank their lucky stars. Yet Alta Badia, in the heart of the Dolomites, attracts the kind of clientele that likes its lilies gilded. This is one of the ritziest Italian winter resorts, so while it has some of the most expansive ski areas in the world, in the middle of a Unesco natural world heritage site, the locals are eager for visitors to know they do pretty good food, too.

Arriving here via the flight to Verona is a red herring. After an hour at continental speeds on the autostrada towards the northernmost province of South Tyrol, Roman amphitheatres and Capulet balconies feel impossibly distant from the apple orchards that pave the way to the Alpine slopes. Another hour or so later and you are in Alta Badia, as Italian as sauerkraut and strudel. The legacy of the collapse of the Austro-Hungarian empire and the troubled decades that followed is a region that still feels more Germanic than part of the Italian state, with a wealth to match that might explain the preponderance of Michelin-starred chefs, three even in the Alta Badia ski resort: a trio billed as the Dolomitici – or Dolomighty ones.

The German spoken officially with Italian throughout the province gives way in the Alta Badia ski region to Ladin, an ancient Romance language preserved and spoken by a majority in the valleys around Corvara. Food here reflects the memory of a more difficult mountain existence as well as its prosperity today: the two menus it promotes for skiers are, first, the more delicate, nuanced dishes invented by its guest chefs; second, the local, traditional food best appreciated for surviving hiking up a snowy mountain.

For the latter, the best-known Ladin restaurant is Maso Runch-Hof. Runch (pronounced to rhyme with bunk, rather than massive lunch) is the home and institution of one family. Frau Nagler and sons cook while Herr Nagler is front of house, with the face of a benevolent Sid James and an alarmingly large bottle of home-made schnapps, brought to help digest the seven courses on the fixed menu.

My fellow diner – a local, Ladin connoisseur – testifies to the quality of Runch's specialities of tutres and canci. These are varying shapes and sizes of doughnut- and pancake-like concoctions as well as ravioli: spinach, cheese or sweet poppy-seed fillings wrapped in various types of batter, coming plate after plate. Runch could give Aviemore hoteliers hope for a tasting menu built around the deep-fried Mars bar. The host and waitresses look bemused as we decline extra helpings, but the volume of the average human stomach could surely manage little more than the excellent, hearty panicia barley soup and pücia crispbreads and a nibble at the main course, a ham hock that would keep an entire von Trapp family busy.

It feels slightly surreal, even before a middle-aged man in shorts and a green-feathered cap comes in with his accordion to sing. But the high camp of the Alps is not restricted to Ladin agriturismo: the hotel La Perla, located metres from the Cap Alt cable car, puts on a bizarrely enjoyable show for its guests. Not in its L'Murin barn-turned-club complete with go-go dancers; nor even in its underground spa, where ageing, naked Germans wade solemnly anticlockwise between icy and warm paddling pools to boost their circulation. La Perla's real coup de theatre is its wine cellars: and while there are some proud collections in its 30,000 bottles, what truly astonishes is the effort and imagination that has gone into creating something entirely unexpected.

Without overly spoiling the surprise for future guests, it's as if the hotel had Adam Curtis and Willy Wonka on stage design. Calling it the Mahatma cellar may be something of a dubious tribute to the ascetic Gandhi, but this is a tour to delight non-drinkers as much as wine gluggers, from the moment the sommelier starts dancing in the first vault.

Up the cellar's fireman's pole is the Stüa de Michil – La Perla's own Michelin-starred restaurant, where concoctions such as veal tongue and octopus are served up for the gourmand (with one refined main dish costing more than a night at the Runch). This room is one of numerous stubes, or traditional parlour rooms, where guests can dine: each is different, but with the essential decor of wooden panels on floor, wall and ceiling, a throwback to the past when only one warm room in the house would serve, thus insulated, as a place for the family to congregate, cook, eat and sleep – on top of the oven.

As if to lure the holidaying gastronome out of the resort and on to the ski slope, Alta Badia's plusher mountain huts have also launched skiing taste trails – one traditionally Ladin, one the creation of a consortium of South Tyrol's Michelin-starred sons. The Ladin menus can be found in the slopes leading up to the magnificent peak of Santa Croce: close up, the Dolomite rock is a more colourful, coffee stone than the sombre grey it appears when viewed across the Alps. In this former place of pilgrimage, where a simple Catholic chapel still stands, skiers can now walk up the last stretch from the highest lift to try Ladin delicacies at the Crusc hut – although the pössl I tried would be recognised through the Alps as what Austrians call Kaiserschmarrn, a thick mishmash of shredded pancakes and red-fruit compote. Elsewhere, for the chef chasers, are 11 huts in each of which one dish has been specially created by a Michelin-starred son of Tyrol. At the Pralongia, for example, there is pork belly with Indian spices on kraut with a grappa-soaked plum sauce – and, given ski-slope mark-ups, they are not unreasonably priced at €12-25.

Then you've just got to ski back down. The slopes here aren't as vertiginous as some. There are some great long red runs, including the majority of the 26km Sella Ronda circuit that can be skied in one energetic day. A combined Dolomiti Superski pass links 1,200km of pistes in a dozen resorts around Alta Badia, joined by long stretches of almost horizontal lifts. That means many chair lifts give the disconcerting sight of rows of skiers heading towards each other rather than all going up a mountain – grateful, perhaps, for a chance to digest all that rich food.

Essentials

British Airways (ba.com) flies daily from Gatwick to Verona, with fares from £80.60. Hotel La Perla (hotel-laperla.it) has rooms from ¤320 per night, including breakfast. For more information on South Tyrol, go to suedtirol.info

Italy may be synonymous with high fashion but look around Rome's backstreet markets and there are bargains aplenty. At Via Sannio, our blogger bought a whole new outfit for under €25

This blog first appeared on the Young in Rome blog

Did you know that Rick Ross has a chain of himself wearing a chain? Did you know that Mitt Romney tried to make a casual $10,000 bet in the middle of a political debate? Did you know that the Eclipse, Roman Abramovich's €340m (and counting) yacht, is equipped with a guided-missile defense system? Did you know that the author of this post bought all the incredible items pictured below for €25 total?

Yes, dear readers, all of this is possible and more at the Via Sannio outdoor market! It is truly a place you can shop until you stop, because, well, you really didn't have that much money to spend in the first place. Who needs hot tubs and heli-pads when you can have a whole new outfit for a millionth of the price?

The famous Sunday market at Porta Portese may be the mega-yacht of used-good markets in Rome, but the market at Via Sannio is the tugboat. It is much smaller than its cousin by the Tiber but it puts in the dirty work, as it is open every day except Sunday. Because of its moderate size, the market can be navigated in an easy, but thorough, 30-45 minutes. The wares of the Via Sannio market range from €1 heaps of clothes, to authentic cashmere sweaters, to high-end leather and fur (note: fur purchases frowned upon by author), although stalls selling used trinkets are less common. Buyer beware, however: the men who own the stalls of new "designer" clothing at the market's entrances are extremely touchy and aggressive.

Where is this glorious garden of goods, where the mere pauper plays the prince? The market lies an easy walk from the San Giovanni metro stop (Linea A) and the area surrounding San Giovanni in Laterano (accessible by many buses, such as the 714, 650, 87, 85, 81, 16, etc). Here it is on Google Maps.

You may never be able to buy a diamond chain of yourself wearing a yacht armed with guided missiles, but you can bet your bottom dollar (see what I did there?) you can find some incredible bargains in the friendly confines of Via Sannio. If you see a pale dude shamelessly trying on €1 sweaters, that's probably me. Come say "Hi"!

This is an article from our Guardian Travel Network. To find out more about it, click here

A stone's throw from Rome's Colosseum, you'll find the up-and-coming neighbourhood of Monti, buzzing with cool bars, fashion shops and traditional restaurants, loved by a loyal local crowd

Read more in our Italy special in this Saturday's Guardian

The Colosseum may be one of Rome's main tourist attractions, but wander up the slight incline away from the famous amphitheatre and you'll find endless gems of architecture, craft, fashion and restaurants tucked away in narrow streets and quiet corners. Formerly the city's seedy underbelly – where prostitutes and outlaws took refuge until as recently as the 1940s – Monti is now an enclave for the city's young, creative flock, and has the new upstarts to prove it. Strolling the cobblestone streets, you're likely to hear the hum of a designer's sewing machine or the thud of a hammer in a jeweller's shop.

The neighbourhood, named after one of Rome's seven famous hills, marries modernity with historical charm – from the fresh new ventures rubbing up against centuries of crumbling craftsmanship to the dapper signor ordering his cafe next to a bedraggled hipster.

Smaller and less touristy than the nightlife hub of Trastevere, it retains a strong community vibe. Read on to get a view of the neighbourhood that's off your standard guidebook grid.

Ai Tre Scallini

You'll know you've arrived at this enoteca when you spot hordes of wine-glass-grasping Italians spilling out of a stooped, ivy-lined doorway. Though it's always jam-packed, this watering hole still carries a familial vibe, and you'll often spot owners Adriano and Barbara greeting regulars with a double kiss. The rustic, wooden bar is stocked with a wide-range of Lazio wines as well as a few old-school beers on tap, and small plates are served for both lunch and dinner. We're fans of the mouthwatering melanzane di parmigiano, polpettine al sugo (meatballs in a tomato sauce), and the ricotta cheese paired with truffle honey. They don't take reservations and the place is full by 7pm, so plan to sip a glass standing up while you wait for your table.
• Via Panisperna 251, +39 06 4890 7495, wix.com/colosseoorg/aitrescalini. Open every day

Mercato Monti

What started as a way for several Monti shop owners to burn through some overstock has now turned into a fully fledged vintage market. Led by local boutique owner Fabrizio Marin and ex-music agent Ornella Cicchetti, the market mixes together 35 seemingly disparate vendors every Sunday. Cicchetti prides herself on featuring only the most beautiful items, and you'll find everything from bold jewels, saucer-like glasses, special-edition Polaroid cameras and handmade glass-blown baubles sprinkled throughout the space. And the clothing is not only vintage – there are also fantastical pieces by emerging fashion designers.
• Hotel Palatino Via Leonina 46/48, mercatomonti.com. Every Sunday (except the last of the month) 10am – 8pm

Casa Clementina

As the old adage says, there's no place like home. And you can find your home in Rome at this new bar styled after a fashionable 60s abode. Complete with a kitchen (pots and pans included) a parlour with a sofa, and even a plush bed in the back room, the space has a cool-yet-domestic vibe. All objects are for sale, from the wine in the fridge to the fabulous clothes hanging in the closet, and there are drinks and snacks to fuel your roaming and buying. It opened in December 2011 and has quickly become the new hip hangout for the city's creative crowd. This gives it an interesting blend of homey and haute: feel free to put your feet up, just remember that your shoes are being judged.
• Via Clementina 9, Casa Clementina on Facebook. Open every day

La Carbonara

This old-school trattoria has been churning out delicious Roman fare since 1906. Owned by the Rossi family – with Mama Teresa taking the culinary helm and son Andrea working the front of house – the restaurant has become a neighbourhood institution. It's hip (Roman musicians and actors frequently stop by), yet cosy with tables packed close together and customers being encouraged to scribble notes on the walls after their meal. The artichoke antipasto selections (both Judea and Romana) are superb, and standout primis are the carbonara and the strozzapreti. For your second course, try venturing into the world of quinto quarto (Roman offal dishes), and go for the tripe or coda alla vaccinara (oxtail stew).
• Via Panisperna 214, +39 06 482 5176, lacarbonara.it/; Closed Sunday.

Antico Forno ai Serpenti

When this place opened in December 2011, owner Alessando Santomauro envisioned creating a modern space that churns out traditional Italian treats. For the food, he enlisted Sergio Conti – hailing from a long line of bakers – who's on site every day overseeing the production of his family's recipes. And for design, Santomauro enlisted two local architects to create a French chic atmosphere that strays from the typical forno format. Stop by in the morning for delicious cornetti or in the afternoon for a slice of pizza bianca, a simple Roman style pizza topped with only olive oil and salt. Guests love their misshaped brutti ma buoni (ugly but good) gluten-free cookies and la mela in camicia, a flaky pastry filled with cinnamon-topped apples.
• Corner of Via dei Serpenti and Via Panisperna. Open every day (on Sunday until 2pm)

Mia Market

It's easy to picture this quirky organic cafe/market set against the seaside in some Californian beach town. Walls are draped in aged magazine paper, wooden crates overflow with seasonal produce, and fresh eggs and tarts are on display. Serving food exclusively from the region of Lazio, their quiche-like tortes are delicious, as are their soups and salads. Customers can dine at the mismatched tables and chairs, and the fact that you need to fetch your wooden, biodegradable spoon from the cupboard further emphasises the cosy atmosphere. Make sure you check out the shelves – laden with artisanal food products such as olive oils, jams, sauces, teas, and organic fruit juices – before you hit the cobblestone road.
• Via Panisperna 225,+39 06 4782 4611, miamarket.blogspot.com. Closed Sunday

Pulp

Only a few minutes from the Via Cavour metro station, this funky and fun vintage shop is still making a sartorial splash nearly a decade after its launch. The brainchild of Fabio Brumeccini and Fabrizio Polanschiand, Pulp features a tightly edited collection of vintage and resale clothes (ranging from €15-€70), with classic staple pieces displayed next to kitsch prints in bold hues and a superb selection of shoes and accessories are sprinkled throughout. And here's something that will excite dedicated followers of fashion: the shop receives new weekly pieces from exclusive designer vintage collections (think Gucci and Chanel). You can even tweak them thanks to their tailoring service.
• Via del Boschetto 140, +39 06 485511. Closed Sunday

Relais Rome Sweet Home Fori Imperiali

Tucked down a charming residential street, this B&B allows you to experience the real-deal Roman life, but is still central enough that you can walk everywhere. The four rooms are modern and spacious; the detached suite with handmade terra cotta floors and a high, exposed wood ceiling is gorgeous. Upon arrival, you'll be handed the keys, as well as a very helpful guide to the neighbourhood, and then left to your own devices – although owner Bernardo is always a phone call away if you need him. Also, each morning he prepares a simple breakfast for guests, which he leaves on a tray outside their door. There's no permanent reception, so either arrange a time to meet Bernardo, or have your cell phone handy to call (there's a number listed at the buzzer). Contact directly for better deals.
• Via Madonna dei Monti 96, +39 06 699 0667, relaisromesweethome.it. Doubles from around €165 per night B&B (two-night minimum)

Vino Roma

Drinking wine and Italy go hand in hand. Get a better grasp on what you're tasting with a quick crash course at Vino Roma, where owner Hande dishes up wisdom on the culture and history of Italian wine and reveals fun facts that you can spout off at your next trip to the enoteca. The all-levels classes are held in a sleek and modern tasting room and the atmosphere is relaxed (serious sippers beware!) and hands-on. You can go online and chose from an array of interesting classes, such as Wine and Cheese Lunch, with a gorgeous spread of cheese, meats, and seasonal produce, or Sparkly Saturdays, where Hande pays homage to her love of the bubbly.
• €50 for each course. Via in Selci 84, mail@vinoroma.com

Fontana di Piazza della Madonna dei Monti

Located in the heart of Monti, the piazzetta has become a sort of local gathering spot. At lunch, you'll find young Romans on benches tucking into piadinas (flatbread from the Emilia-Romano district) from the nearby and beloved Piadineria, and at night you'll find groups merrily sharing bottles of wine on the marble steps. The flowing fountain was built by Giacomo della Porta in 1588, who also built the nearby Madonna dei Monti church, and served as the district's main water supply back in the day. It's simple and modest as far as fountains go, but it's the perfect place to relax and refuel on a sunny day.
• La Piadineria, Via del Boschetto 98, +39 06 489 07923, lapiadineria.com. Mon-Fri 11.30am-11pm, Sat and Sun 11.30am-3pm

Culture and children can mix – if you keep them entertained with gory tales and a treat or two

It was the first day of our family holiday to Rome and things were not going according to plan. We'd hired a guide to show us around the Colosseum, the city's 2,000-year-old amphitheatre, but 30 minutes into the tour he was boring the children senseless with the intricate details of how it was built.

Our eight-year-old slid to the ground behind a pillar. "Mummy," he hissed, "what about the gladiators?" We ditched the guide and I tried to fire Luke's imagination.

"This is as big as Wembley stadium but it took three minutes for 60,000 spectators to get through the gates."

"Wow!"

"The emperor sat there and, look, lions entered through a trap door, there, and the injured were carried out here, through the Gate of the Dead."

"Wow!"

His face lit up with enthusiasm, but when we headed across the road to the Forum our (slightly older) daughter dismissed the ruins of the heart of ancient Rome as "piles of old rubble".

Bringing the children to Rome had seemed a great idea – they had enjoyed studying the Romans at school – but it occured to me that at the time, when they were just eight and 10, they still didn't have the patience for all these sights. Time for a change of plan.

Next day we headed 20 miles out of town to the excavated ruins of Ostia Antica, once Rome's harbour city. You may not have heard of it, but I bet children over eight would know where I meant because it is the setting for the popular children's novels (and now TV series) The Roman Mysteries.

"We're going to where Flavia and Jonathan lived," Emelye told her brother excitedly on the train.

Ostia, possibly founded as early as 4BC but abandoned hundred of years ago, is similar to Pompeii in that many of the buildings are still intact, having been preserved over the centuries by mud and silt from the Tiber, but it is much less touristy. It's only 30 minutes from the centre of Rome yet we didn't see a single visitor as we enter the site.

Wandering down the Decumanus Maximus (the main road) we passed houses, shops and apartment blocks which have survived the centuries. In the Baths of Neptune, there was a large black and white mosaic of the sea god riding a chariot; the town's bakery still has an oven and millstones; in the Thermopolium, a taverna, we could see the original stone benches and make out paintings of vegetables on the wall above a fireplace.

"You can really imagine what it was like here hundreds of years ago," whispered our daughter in awe.

There were no signs warning visitors to "keep off". Our kids relished running down shady passages, finding hidden rooms, scrambling up worn steps to the roof tops, giggling on the old latrines. In the forum, we stood where traders from all over the Roman Empire would have gathered to arrange the carriage of goods to Rome: wheat from Spain, sugar from India and, our son was thrilled to hear, live animals from Africa to fight in the Colosseum.

Two thousand years ago Ostia, once home to about 100,000 people, would have been heaving, but as we ate our picnic on the steps of the partially restored amphitheatre, the only sound was the constant chirp of crickets – until an Italian tourist down below strode to the centre of the tiny stage and belted out O Sole Mio.

"This place is so coool," said Emelye.

They were slightly less enthusiastic about spending the next day at the Vatican, so we hurried past amazing artworks to reach the Sistine Chapel before their attention span ran out. It was worth the sprint as both were, surprisingly, mesmerised by Michelangelo's paint job on the ceiling.

Bribing them with gelato, we also managed to coax them up the dome of St Peter's. That was fun, they conceded, but not nearly as much as hiring a four-man go-cart in the Villa Borghese gardens later that day and careering round the park.

Having ticked off all the main sights, splashed our hands in the Trevi Fountain and raced each other up the Spanish Steps, we let the children decide how we would spend our last day in Rome.

"Let's go back to the Colosseum," said Luke.

"Really?" I was impressed. Who says kids and culture don't mix?

"Yes," he said. "They sell the best ice-cream there."

• A three-night break in Rome at Easter for a family of four costs £1,063 with Expedia (expedia.co.uk), including flights from Heathrow and room-only accommodation in a four-star hotel.Trains to Ostia run four times an hour from Piramide station (get there on metro line B). Entry to the ruins (archeoroma.beniculturali.it/en) costs €6.50pp, free to EU citizens under 17 (closed Mondays)

Bordering Tuscany and Umbria, but with fewer tourists and lower prices, Lazio is just waiting to be discovered

If you'd like to recommend your favourite place in Lazio, please leave a comment

Stay – Castello di Proceno

A crenellated medieval affair with a working drawbridge, Castello di Proceno rises imperiously above the village of the same name, close to the border between Tuscany and Lazio, in a verdant landscape of chestnut woods and hay fields. Within the walls are seven guest apartments and three suites, all done out in cosy Italian grandma style. Best buys are the four-berth seasonal suites, Primavera, Estate and Autunno (from €720 a week), each with a private terrace or garden. Inside the keep is a private museum of priestly robes, musical instruments and other historic gewgaws; there's also a wine bar featuring an original Etruscan tomb. Paths lined with wisteria and iris lead down to the pool and summer restaurant.
• Corso Regina Margherita 155, Proceno, +39 0763 710072, castellodiproceno.it. Apartments sleeping two to five from €520 a week, suites sleeping two from €100 a night

Explore – La Riserva Naturale Monte Rufeno

Monte Rufeno nature reserve occupies more than 7,000 acres of rolling oak forest on the borders of Lazio, Umbria and Tuscany. It's a wild corner of Italy, the haunt of boar and porcupine. Inside the reserve, three stone casali (farmhouses) offer simple – some might say spartan – accommodation, ranging from doubles with en suites to quad rooms. Large groups can rent an entire farmhouse, with kitchen. If you prefer to be cooked for, the restaurant at five-room Casale Monaldesca serves hearty local fare. The reserve is crisscrossed by walking, biking and riding trails, and there are horses for hire.
• Strada Trevinano Monaldesca 44, Acquapendente, +39 335 364322, lamonaldesca.it. Doubles from €60 B&B, dinner €21

Relax – Il Bagnaccio hot spring

One of the joys of the volcanic northern reaches of Lazio is the abundance of hot springs, perfect for a restorative wallow. Some, especially around Viterbo, have been channelled into thermal resorts with a faintly institutional feel, but many rise in open countryside and attract a democratic mix of locals (who see free thermal pools as a basic human right) and adventurous tourists. One of the best is Il Bagnaccio, where pools have been carved out of white clay in a bucolic landscape that can't have changed much since Etruscan times. Bring a towel and claim your corner.
• Il Bagnaccio is 6km north of Viterbo. To get there, take SS2, Strada Cassia Nord, then bear left on to SP7 to Marta and Capodimonte. After less than a mile, keep an eye out for a shapeless Roman ruin on your left and drive down the track in front of it to the springs

Drink – Sergio Mottura wines

Orvieto may be better known, but some of the best white wines in the area between Rome and Florence are made around Civitella d'Agliano, an unassuming town half an hour's drive east of Lake Bolsena. The leading producer is a cultured gentleman by the name of Sergio Mottura, whose main cellar occupies a 16th-century manor house that doubles as an 11-room country-chic hotel and summer restaurant, La Tana dell'Istrice (the porcupine's burrow). The estate's award-winning Poggio della Costa white, made from 100% grechetto grapes, is a snip at €10.80 a bottle at the cellar door.
• Piazza Unità d'Italia 12, Civitella d'Agliano, +39 0761 914501, motturasergio.it

Eat – La Tana dell'Orso

Surrounded by vineyards, market gardens and oak woods, this country restaurant with opera-box views is a charming venue for a long summer lunch. Grilled or baked lake fish such as coregone (whitefish), tench and eel vie with meaty mains like lamb in red wine with porcini, but vegetarians are also catered for with classic ribollita soup and an encyclopedic cheese board – the personal passion of owner Bruno. Wrap up your meal with walnut and chocolate biscuits dipped in aleatico dessert wine.
• Località Montesegnale 162, Bolsena, +39 0761 798162. Closed all day Thursday and Sunday evening. Average €25 a head without wine

See – Lake Bolsena

Largest of the three volcanic lakes north of Rome, Bolsena is the most characterful (and least thronged with daytrippers). Of the lake towns, Bolsena itself has the readiest charm, with its centro storico and Collegiata di Santa Cristina church, a historical layer cake whose earliest parts date from 11th century. The little town of Marta on the southern shore – scene of an evocative spring procession called La Barabbata on 14 May – is also worth a visit, but perhaps best of all is Isola Bisentina, a romantic island reached by ferry from Bolsena, Marta or Capodimonte. With seven oratories in various states of disrepair and an artfully gothic landscape cared for by present owner Prince Giovanni del Drago, it's a fine place for a tryst, a swim or a picnic.
• Naviga Bolsena (navigabolsena.com) in Capodimonte has boat trips from €6pp

Eat – Gelateria Santa Cristina

Bolsena just happens to be home to one of Italy's finest gourmet ice-cream emporiums. The coffee flavour of gelato maestros Anna Cristina Salomone and her husband Giulio carried off the top award at the prestigious ice-cream world cup in Rimini in 2008, while their Piedmont hazelnut picked up third prize a year later. But it's the ricotta and cinnamon flavour that Anna Cristina considers the house speciality. Despite the quality ingredients, prices are no higher than usual, starting at €2 for a small cone or tub.
• Corso della Repubblica 8, Bolsena, +39 0761 798758. Open daily

Tour – Vignanello garden

A rewarding half-day trip from Bolsena, this labyrinth of immaculately clipped box hedges has resisted the vagaries of garden fashion to come down to us unchanged from the early 17th century. Hidden in the 12 parterres are the initials of the garden's founder, Ottavia Orsini, and her sons. The current owner, the formidable but simpatica Princess Claudia Ruspoli, personally guides visitors around the garden which she has restored with passion. Tours, which also take in her castle home, Castello Ruspoli, take place on Sundays from April to the end of October. Groups can visit by appointment at other times too.
• Piazza della Repubblica, Vignanello, +39 0761 755338, castelloruspoli.com, €10pp

Visit – Civita di Bagnoregio

Isolated on an eroded spur of volcanic tufa, this improbably perched hamlet is famous as il paese che muore – the dying village. But patronage from the likes of Prince Charles and Unesco have helped shore up what's left of the slowly crumbling borgo, and today this once inaccessible community with a winter population of fewer than 20 souls is one of the area's main tourist draws. Reached via a bracingly modern pedestrian bridge, Civita has little to offer beyond some craft shops and photogenic plant-draped tufa houses (the house where Saint Bonaventure was born has long since fallen into the valley along with dozens of others), but it's still an unmissable sight.
• 24km north of Viterbo, follow signs to Montefiascone, then Bagnoregio

Stay – La Montagnola

Just outside Gradoli, La Montagnola is a comfortably contemporary two-bedroom apartment on the ground floor of a villa with stunning lake views from the pool and adjacent shaded pergola. With weekly rates from £860, it's a well-priced option for two couples, with serious cooking facilities. The British owners live upstairs – not ideal if you're looking for isolation, but it does mean you have two friendly, English-speaking experts on hand for dining and sightseeing advice.
• Book through Cottages to Castles, cottagestocastles.com

For a new angle on Italy, ditch the car and try sailing off the Amalfi coast, riding a Vespa through Tuscany, cycling round Venice or kayaking around Sardinia

Castle-to-castle horseriding, Lazio and Tuscany

If you've always wanted to sleep in a fairytale castle, you'll love this new horsey holiday staying in not one, not two, but three impressive castles. On a guided trip for intermediate and advanced riders, you'll spend the first three nights in an ivy-covered room at the 17th-century Castello di Santa Cristina, riding out to lakes for swimming and waterside lunches. Then you'll ride on to the Orsini Fortress, high above the Etruscan town of Sorano, where you'll stay for two nights. The final castle is in the centre of the little town of Proceno, and has a swimming pool with panoramic terraces – medieval living with a touch of modern luxury.
• From £1,537pp for a week full-board, departures in June and September, theridingcompany.com

Cycling, Veneto

Cycling isn't the most obvious way to get to Venice, but it makes sense in a strange way. The string of long, flat, narrow islands that separate the lagoon from the Adriatic are perfect for cyclists – you can take your bike on the short boat rides between islands, then simply lock it up when you get to the Lido and take a vaporetto to Venice proper. Indeed, that is the last leg of a new independent cycling route from Inntravel, which starts in swanky Vicenza and takes in venerable Padova and the fishing port of Chioggia. On the way to Venice, the route passes through a pretty landscape of gentle green hills and valleys. Accommodation is in three- and four-star hotels, and you can spend a night or two in Venice as an optional add-on.
• From £825pp for six nights' B&B, including cycle hire and luggage transportation, inntravel.co.uk

Sailing, Amalfi coast

Spend an idyllic week cruising around the gorgeous Amalfi coast on your very own yacht. Bareboat Sailing Holidays has yachts for charter for those with sailing qualifications, while the rest of us can hire a skipper to do the hard work as we kick back on deck or swim in the sea. Either way, the Bay of Naples and beyond is your oyster. Drop anchor at Capri, volcanic Ischia or the other Phlegrean islands; work your way along the Amalfi coastal resorts of Sorrento, Positano and Ravello; or head north to the Pontine islands. The area is dotted with great beaches and rugged landscapes, plus top-notch nightlife for party animals.
• A six-berth yacht costs from £1,434 for a week in June, starting from Salerno or Procida, bareboatsailingholidays.com

Vespa touring, Tuscany

Make like Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck on a Vespa holiday for two. Don't worry, unlike the Roman Holiday stars you get one each: matching shiny red scooters for exploring the rolling hills of Tuscany. You'll stay in a luxury villa in a converted 14th-century building in Radda in Chianti, a medieval town between Siena and Florence. It's a beautiful base for exploring the surrounding vineyards and villages, and you'll be provided with lots of local information, maps and a GPS so you can hit the open road with confidence. There is also a guided group version of the holiday if you'd rather embrace your inner biker and travel in a pack.
• From around €1,390pp for a week's all-inclusive stay, excluding flights, italybyvespa.com

Kayaking, Sardinia

Forgo creature comforts on a sea kayaking adventure around Sardinia. You're eased in gently with three days' paddling around little islands and along a river, staying in family-run hotels, before heading off on an expedition along the wild coastline. You'll spend two nights camping under the stars on deserted beaches, eating simple Sardinian food, snorkelling, rock climbing and watching the sun set over the Med. The last night is spent in a lovely agriturismo overlooking the sea, refuelling with a four-course dinner followed by a nice soft bed.
• From £995pp for seven days, including accommodation, meals and equipment but excluding flights, responsibletravel.com

Island-hopping, Aeolian islands

Discover the black volcanic beaches of the rocky Aeolian islands off Sicily on a self-guided walking trip. You'll spend four nights in a converted country house on Lipari, the main island in the archipelago, giving you plenty of time to hop over to spectacular Stromboli, where the volcano regularly erupts, and to the smaller Vulcano and relaxed Salina. After that it's off to a 400-year-old mansion in Sicily for walks with great views of Mount Etna, including one on the flanks of Europe's largest volcano. But it's not all walking and volcanoes – there are plenty of picturesque fishing villages, Roman ruins and spots for swimming, too.
• From £625pp for eight days' B&B, excluding flights, for departures in April and October, walksworldwide.com

An ambitious project has transformed the run-down and semi-abandoned heart of Favara, in southern Sicily, into a modern art exhibition

It is impossible not to be inspired by Andrea Bartoli. In less than two years, the self-confessed "notary by profession and cultural agitator by passion" has achieved the near impossible: turning an impoverished town in the south of Sicily into the island's capital of cool.

With one of Italy's highest rates of unemployment and an unparalleled reputation for urban eyesores, Favara, which is just 8km from Agrigento's monumental Valley of the Temples, has never featured on any tourist map. Nor was it ever likely to. But since Farm Cultural Park (farm-culturalpark.com, free entry, closed Mondays) opened in 2010, the town has attracted artists and visitors from all over the world.

The project is a contemporary art complex that occupies the entire historic centre of Favara. The idea is to draw visitors in to a handful of structures entwined together like an art gallery – there's a design corner, a tea garden and a bookshop, a sandwich shop, a champagne bar, and a concept store.

Exteriors of buildings are used as canvases for huge paintings and sculptures by artists such as Fabio Melosu; courtyards feature installations, including Fabio Novembre's giant pot-chairs; and one building houses the world's biggest permanent collection of work by US fashion photographer Terry Richardson.

The idea came about when Bartoli bought several empty dwellings in Favara's semi-abandoned centre. Inspired by places such as Djemaa el-Fna in Marrakech, he thought that the maze of stone houses, with its alleys, central square and small castle were a perfect setting for an art marketplace, rather like a Sicilian kasbah.

"We were tired of always having to go to places like New York or London to see anything interesting," he says. "We wanted to find a way to transform and improve the area we were living in, for ourselves but also for our kids."

Bartoli's brainchild deliberately presents art in a manner and style that relates and speaks to anyone, regardless of whether you're a worldly traveller, an art expert or someone who has never even left the town.

"In Italy nobody does anything before securing public funds," says Bartoli. "But if you're always waiting, what's the difference between you and those you are criticising?"

• Belmonte Hotel in Favara (+39 0922 437146, belmontehotel.com) has doubles from €80. Ryanair (ryanair.com) flies from Stansted to Palermo from £90 return

The Via Francigena is an ancient pilgrims' route from Canterbury to Rome. Our writer tackles the final 100km section – fuelled by the best rustic food and drink

As the train finally left the suburbs of Rome and started rolling past vineyards, olive groves and umbrella pines, my husband and I grinned ruefully at each other: "This actually looks like quite a long way." Further north we looked out at the hilly and wooded terrain flashing past, and down at our booted feet: "Yes, definitely a long way."

Every mile was going to have to be retraced on foot, because we'd decided to test our hiking legs on a very ancient route, the Via Francigena, which ran in medieval times from Canterbury through France and Switzerland to the Eternal City. A pilgrimage to Rome – resting place of saints Peter and Paul – used to be just as popular as going to Santiago de Compostela.

Though it fell out of fashion compared with the Spanish route, fragments of the Via Francigena survived, and in 2009 the Italian government launched a project to reinstate the whole Italian leg of the route. To do this they used the records of one Sigeric the Serious (yes, really) who in about 990AD was made Archbishop of Canterbury and had to travel to Rome. One of his retinue noted the places they stopped, and that diary is now in the British Library, like a low-tech TripAdvisor.

Last year, with the route pretty much revamped and signposted, Dublin-based operator Camino Ways added holidays on the Via Francigena to its Camino de Santiago trips. The entire 2,083km from Canterbury to St Peter's would take four months: the company offers discounts to those doing successive one- or two-week sections as part of a years-long project. It books hotels along the route, and moves your baggage on each day.

We'd opted for the final 100km – maximum payback, the Eternal City, for relatively little effort.

We slowed to 10th century pace once we reached our starting point, Viterbo, in northern Lazio, swapping diesel engines for feet and legs, hydrocarbons for carbohydrates. We had a set-you-up dinner the night before we set off at the 400-year-old Tre Re restaurant (+39 0761 304619, ristorantetrere.com) in Viterbo. Old sobersides Sigeric would probably have felt right at home with the intensely savoury soup of chickpeas and chestnuts, luscious spit-roast pork, and ricotta with honey and walnuts. The carafe of red wine might even have raised a smile.

Next morning, our breath misting in the sunlit air and birds singing in the olive groves, we girded our loins and headed south-west, following the Lightfoot Guide to the Via Francigena (Pilgrimage Publications, £18.99). Paul Chinn and Babette Gallard quit jobs in business for a life following and mapping, in great detail, pilgrimage routes on bike, foot and horseback.

The route is also waymarked, in an idiosyncratic way. Over years individual districts marked stretches with their own signage, and this has not been standardised. Just when we'd got used to looking out for red-and-white blobs, it would change to yellow, blue or brown. Spotting the signs added interest and reassurance. Directions in the book were good, but vague enough to offer a frisson of explorer excitement. There is little Chinn and Gallard can do about farmers ploughing up the path (two occasions) or erecting an electric fence across the route (our longest detour). And often when the "official" way skirted a town, strident signs pointed pilgrims down the main street, presumably to lighten our purses a little.

Rome is famously built on seven hills, but this entire region is hilly, which made for glorious walking, and continuously changing vistas: open fields with views to the Appenines, lanes between banks, forest trails and drystone walls that probably looked much as they had a millennium ago.

It was the end of November as we set off: trees and bracken were yellow and gold against a cloudless sky, the distant hills purply-brown, and we walked to a soundtrack of "thonks" as falling acorns hit the ground. The olive harvest was in full swing. Dews were heavy each morning, and the air chill, but by 10am scarves, jackets, even jumpers had been shed and we walked in T-shirts.

Each day brought new delights: a golden wood that could have graced Middle Earth, a plunging river valley, undulating meadows grazed by ponies.

Much of day three was spent among hazel groves. Towards noon we spied a shack amid the nut trees. "Buon giorno," I called, but the place was deserted. Gratefully we sank onto a vine-shaded bench to eat our lunch of cheese, salami, bread, oranges, olives. The hut was tiny, just a place to store tools, but behind it was an outdoor pizza oven, with marble-topped table for rolling dough. The hazel harvest is clearly a convivial occasion in these parts. Like good hikers we took care to remove all evidence of our stopover, but as we set off again I almost felt we should leave a note telling the farmer how much we had enjoyed his corner of paradise.

Camino Ways divides the walk into doable sections, no more than 25km a day. The problem with doing it in November/December was the light: long lunches were out when there was several hours' march to get in before darkness fell – with scary rapidity – at 5pm. But approaching an ancient hill town at dusk after long miles on foot and climbing wearily towards warmth, shelter and huge plates of pasta made us feel like real pilgrims.

The most remarkable of these towns was Sutri: old enough to make Viterbo look like Milton Keynes, it was an Etruscan stronghold almost 3,000 years ago. Feet up in our hotel off its main square, I read up on these mysterious ancients. They left behind no texts, but a wealth of "stuff" – jewellery, mirrors, containers for cosmetics. In portraits of Etruscan women no two hairdos are alike; locks are often dyed blonde. And according to grumpy Roman men, these women were loud and didn't know their place. This sounded familiar. Long before Essex was invented, it seems, the only way was Etruscan.

Unlike the rest of the trip, our final 16km into Rome was down main roads. The day before, hazards had been ploughed fields and some scary stepping stones; now they were narrow verges and speeding lorries. But soon we got our first glimpse of the dome of St Peter's, through trees from the top of 139m Monte Mario, north-west of the centre. We ate our final picnic with Rome spread out before us. It was only 3km from here to our goal, but we dawdled the rest of the way down long Viale Angelico, not wanting the journey to end.

Then suddenly we were there. We don't have a shred of religious conviction between us, but the basilica, and the colonnades like protective arms around the piazza, made an impressive sight. We mingled with tourists of many nationalities, and I thought how most of them would have come to Rome by plane. Some would have arrived by train, coach or car, but I'd bet none of them had made it to Rome on their own two feet.

The island of Mazzorbo, a ferry ride from the centre of Venice, is a world away from the crowds of St Mark's

Indulging yourself in Venice normally means checking into one of the Serenissima's famed luxury hotels – the exclusive Cipriani or majestic Danieli. But indulging yourself doesn't always have to cost a fortune.

So today, I'm escaping the crowds, and I'm waiting at the Fondamente Nove boat stop to board the Motonave ferry that departs every half an hour, linking the city with the other islands across the lagoon. It is easy to forget that Venice is just one of dozens of islands dotted around a vast wetland region. The ferry is packed with tourists headed either for a tour of the glass-blowing furnaces on Murano, the eerily beautiful cemetery on cypress-lined San Michele, Torcello's ancient Byzantine cathedral or as far as Burano, whose brightly coloured fishermen's cottages and lace-making workshops have been drawing visitors for centuries.

My destination, though, is the stop just before Burano, the little-known island of Mazzorbo, where virtually no one ever gets off. But then I am booked into Venissa, a chic hideaway that is barely known even to Venetians.

Venissa is the brainchild of winemaker Gianluca Bisol, whose family produce some of Italy's most famous prosecco up in Valdobbiadene, just an hour's drive from Venice. He took over one corner of Mazzorbo and planted a new vineyard, with the aim of making a genuine Venetian wine, which will finally be ready for tasting this year. At the same time, the family slowly transformed farm buildings, fishermen's houses and a wine cellar into a comfortable six-room hotel with prices that compare well with anything on offer in Venice itself.

Downstairs there is a cool lounge and wine bar, but the real shock comes as I walk out the back where lines of vineyards have been planted as far as an ancient belltower. Surrounded by all this greenery is an old storehouse that has been turned into the restaurant.

The chef here, Paola Budel, is definitely looking to make her mark on the Venetian fine dining scene, so don't expect cheap and cheerful trattoria cooking. But then nowhere in Venice is cheap for eating out, so although a romantic gourmet meal here will set you back upwards of €70 each, it is well worth the expense.

The fish and seafood are of the highest quality, combined with fantastic seasonal vegetables that are mostly grown in Venissa's own organic garden, or on farms on nearby Sant'Erasmo island. Dishes include plump scampi served with crunchy baby artichokes, grilled eel with a tangy olive, caper and tomato sauce, and a delicious creamy pea soup, with fresh mint and sweet tiny shrimps. And although Budel concentrates on revisiting traditional Venetian recipes, she doesn't forget her culinary roots in the nearby Dolomite mountains, surprising diners with dishes pairing roast pigeon with succulent Adriatic prawns and a tangy cherry beer sauce.

It would be quite easy to spend the whole day in the peaceful oasis that is Venissa, but after lunch, I decide to set off and explore Mazzorbo. This is basically a one-street town, except the one street is actually the quayside, where a mix of fishing and pleasure boats are moored, and instead of looking at the shops (there aren't any), I stop off for a drink at the Trattoria alla Maddalena, where the bar is crowded with Venetian cacciatori (hunters) noisily bargaining with the padrone to sell their ducks, as the restaurant is famed for its tagliatelle all'anatra selvatica.

The one sight not to be missed is Santa Caterina church, founded in 783, which has a precariously leaning belltower that looks a lot more dangerous than Pisa's. The island was a favourite haunt of Winston Churchill, who used to escape Venice by sailing out to Mazzorbo and setting up his easel here.

Today, only a couple of hundred people live on the island, so it is quite difficult to imagine that 1,000 years ago, long before Venice itself was settled, Mazzorbo, whose name grandly means "great city", was a booming settlement with several thousand inhabitants.

As the sun starts setting over the lagoon and its tiny islands, I walk over the long wooden bridge that links Mazzorbo with Burano. By this time, all the day trippers have sailed back to their hotels, and the piazza is reclaimed by the locals, mostly fishermen, who wander from bar to bar for the early evening ritual of aperitivo. Venice and its crowds seem a million miles away.

• Double rooms at Venissa (+39 041 527 2281, venissa.it) cost from €150 B&B. British Airways (ba.com) flies from Heathrow and Gatwick to Marco Polo airport from £98 return. Take the Alilaguna water bus to Fondamente Nove, then ferry line LN to Mazzorbo

Alastair Sawday, of Sawday's guides, picks 15 places to stay where the food is as wonderful as the surroundings

Try talking to a group of Italian foodies about French food, and you quickly unearth enough tension to create an international incident. There is little love lost, which is strange and sad, for each country has vast culinary strengths, enough for the rest of us to stand in awe.

I am one of the lucky ones who has been to Terra Madre (terramadre.org), the giant Italian Slow Food festival in Turin, and can vouch for the astonishing vitality in the world of artisanal food. The Slow Food movement began in Italy and has been responsible for rescuing threatened foods – such as Ligurian honey and Dominici apples – and beaten the drum for local and small-scale production.

Slow Food apart, why is Italian food so special? I am no expert, but perhaps part of the secret is a genius for simplicity – for which French food is not known. A glass of friuli and a plate of pasta, in the right setting, can make the heart race. I have eaten such meals a hundred times in the courtyards, kitchens and gardens of Italian B&Bs and small hotels, and have rarely been disappointed. Or is it also Italy's genius for adding vitality to everyday experiences? A pasta that comes with both pesto and panache, as well as the inevitable pepper, has added appeal.

Pasta is rarely expensive – a brilliant device for feeding the poor at low cost, it is now good enough for the rich too. Cheeses, salamis, meats, olives – they can be expensive, I know, especially in the hands of experts. But used sparingly, with salads, fresh fruits and good wine, they add joy to a good Italian meal. In Casa Isabella (near Vaglio Serra, Piedmont), for example, you can settle into an idyll of homemade breads and pasta, with local wines. It is a delightful and simple place, a village farmhouse with glorious vineyard views. L'Orto di Lucania (Montescaglioso, in Basilicata)is another place where you can enjoy food grown on the spot and as honestly as is possible – organic too, the final arbiter of high quality. And what value!

Podere La Casellina Agriturismo, Figline Valdarno, Tuscany

Learn to prune vines and pick olives on the farm; gather chestnuts and wild mushrooms in the woods. Go riding or biking, then return to Grandma's recipes – the grape flan is scrumptious and there's passionfruit for breakfast. This is a taste of country life (vita del contadino) at its simple, Go Slow best. Spotless bedrooms in the old hayloft and stables. Exquisite surroundings: chestnut woods to one side; oaks, cypresses and olives to the other. Host Michelangelo speaks brilliant English and will fill you with great food and che gioia vivere (the joy of living).
• tinyurl.com/lacasellina, B&B doubles from €70, minimum stay two nights, dinner €21pp

Locanda Senio, Palazzuolo sul Senio, Tuscany

Food is king here: genuine home cooking with homegrown fruit and veg from Roberta and, in the restaurant, much gastronomic lore from Ercole, who's passionate about wild herbs and "forgotten" fruits. Take a cookery course (included if you stay three nights). The prosciutto from rare-breed maiale medievale is delicious. Breakfast is a feast of homemade delights, dinner a leisurely treat served in the cosy little log-fired restaurant. Roberta and Ercole are very proud of their wellbeing centre, too, with jacuzzi, sauna and Turkish bath.
• tinyurl.com/locandasenio, B&B doubles from €115, dinner €35pp

Alberghetto La Marianna, Cadenabbia di Griante Como, Lombardy

If breakfast on the banks of Lake Como isn't wonderful enough, Paola's homemade bread, cakes, savouries and jams deliver a slice of heaven, while husband Ty prepares a different menu of wholesome food every day. You can eat inside and admire the local artwork lining the walls, or outside on the terrace that juts over the water. Some bedrooms have balconies – one has its own terrace. Paola treats guests as friends, advising on visits to gardens and villas, boat tours to Isola Comacina, and day trips to St Moritz.
• tinyurl.com/alberghettolam, B&B doubles from €85, dinner €30pp

Casa Bellavista, Cortona, Tuscany

If you've ever wondered what a tomato really tastes like, this is the place to find out. Grown in the garden, together with figs, the tomatoes are just one unforgettable feature of the four-course meals served by arrangement to lucky guests. Pretty, airy bedrooms are furnished with family antiques and interesting textiles – two share a balcony with views on to the garden. Simonetta's kitchen has a huge marble table top for kneading bread, and she cooks delightful farmhouse food. Breakfasts are lavish, cookery lessons a treat (from €100 for a three-hour lesson, preparing at least four dishes).
• tinyurl.com/casabellavista, B&B doubles from €100, dinner from €35pp

Nacalino Agriturismo, Modica, Sicily

An exceptional four-course Sicilian meal is a treat made rarer by Concetta and Filippo's enthusiasm for their agriturismo. Almost everything on the table is from their farm – if they don't produce it themselves, they're on first-name terms with the person who does. Everything is done with Sicilian energy, humour and flair. Simple bedrooms in the old stables border a grassy square where you can sit in the sun, while the rooms above the restaurant are polished and elegant. Little English is spoken here but you'll forge new friendships with ease.
• tinyurl.com/nacalinoagri, B&B doubles from €80, dinner €35

Li Licci, Palau, Sardinia

English-born Jane is an inspired cook of Sardinian food and has created a delightful restaurant, now under an excellent Moroccan chef who uses homegrown, organic produce – pecorino, ricotta, salamis, hams, preserves, liqueurs – to prepare traditional and local food. The bedrooms are immaculate, simple, and white-painted, each with a shower. Li Licci has its own well, and a 2,000-year-old olive tree.
• tinyurl.com/lilicci, B&B doubles from €100, dinner with wine from €30pp

La Chiusa delle More, Peschici, Puglia

Italians flock to the Gargano peninsula in August but few others have discovered it, so come to Peschici out of season, when the lovely beaches and fish restaurants are uncrowded. Five hectares of olive groves and a big kitchen garden supply the restaurant of this small hotel with the ingredients for typical Puglian dishes. Loungers flank a sparkling pool and the air is scented with citrus. Rooms are light, cool and simply furnished, with good little shower rooms. Family rooms have ladders up to children's mezzanines.
• tinyurl.com/lachiusadm, B&B doubles from €160, dinner €30

Relais Divino, Monforte d'Alba, Piedmont

The heavenly trio of good food, good wine and seclusion is the secret here. Thread through Piedmont's rolling landscapes, up to a working estate and you're greeted by the perfume of vines. Dinner is a four-course extravaganza of meat-stuffed pastas, savoury tarts and mouth-watering morsels paired with the estate's wines. Brick arches, candlelight and crisp linen create a magical atmosphere. Great care has been taken over the king-size bedrooms and mezzanine family rooms. Breakfast under the portico, as you survey hazelnut groves and gardens that are a child's delight.
• tinyurl.com/relaisdivino, B&B doubles from €120, dinner €35

Casa Isabella, Vaglio Serra, Piedmont

Homemade breads and pasta, with local wines, highlight the regional menu at this village farmhouse. Monica's food is irresistible, so it's just as well a sample of salami or a snack of crudités from the kitchen garden are yours whenever you like. Heavenly breakfasts are served fireside in winter or, in summer, in the shade of trees. Bedrooms are huge, and two have balconies. There are books by the score, a swimming pool, and a market town 15 minutes down the road.
• tinyurl.com/casaisabella, B&B doubles from €100, dinner €30

Relais del Colle, Ripatransone, Marche

Blissful B&B on an eight-hectare biodynamic farm, where wines, wheat and vegetables are all homegrown. Not only is the food organic but the fluffy towels, bathrobes and bed linen are all organic cotton. Perfectionist Patrizia has thought of everything to keep you happy, including a romantic grotto with a huge hot tub, a massage room and a Turkish colour-therapy bath – heated with solar energy, of course – and an elegant dining room for the restaurant. Come for the inviting bedrooms, gorgeous setting, vineyard rambles, and leisurely meals.
• tinyurl.com/relaisdelcolle, B&B doubles from €75, dinner €30

Relais de Charme, Passignano sul Trasimeno, Umbria

Wonderful dining is woven into the fabric of this place; the light airy restaurant has a "living roof" topped with vegetation; simple food is lovingly made from local organic produce. It's rural and peaceful, but luxurious too, with an infinity pool by the olive grove, shiatsu massage in your bedroom and underfloor heating. Outside are jasmine, lavender, wisteria and bamboo. Inside, goosefeather pillows and mattresses. Breakfast is whenever and wherever you want it and you can book a cookery class or truffle hunt nearly all year round.
• tinyurl.com/relaisdecharme, doubles from €220, minimum stay two nights, dinner €45

Dune Agriturismo Relais, Eraclea Mare, Veneto

If you have ever wished that your children had a better appreciation of great food, send them to watch the young chefs here cook pasta with passion. Then take them to the little shop selling homegrown produce that you can cook yourself, and who knows what wonders might result. The apartments are fabulously well equipped: stylish bedrooms in earthy tones, luxurious bathrooms and kitchens. The restaurant is inexpensive (ask about the half-board option) and a huge garden has barbecue and swimming pool.
• tinyurl.com/duneagriturismo, apartments for two from €70 a night, closed mid-October to mid-April, dinner €20pp

L'Ariete, Montone Perugia, Umbria

Well-travelled Martina and Andreas from Vienna are full of love for their new venture: a restaurant with apartments (and two rooms) in rural Umbria. The rustic restaurant in the old stables is the perfect setting for seasonal fare in Slow Food style, where ingredients are homegrown or from local farms, and dishes are deliciously Umbrian (warm apple strudel for pudding if you're lucky). Light-filled bathrooms range from small to vast: there's a fresh and beautiful simplicity to the rooms. A garden of sunflowers mown by sheep completes the picture.
• tinyurl.com/lariete, apartments for two from €400 a week, dinner from €20

L'Orto di Lucania, Montescaglioso, Basilicata

Rare red aubergines are a treat in store at this organic family farm. Fulvio Spada and his brother Beniamino grow produce using time-honoured methods and serve farm-fresh meals by the fire, or out among gnarled olive trees. Apartments have full kitchens, terrace doors and open fires. Opt for breakfast and it's a homemade, homegrown feast. Swim up an appetite in the large parasol-ringed pool, borrow a bike or arrange horse riding. This area of Basilicata, on the Puglian border, is an undiscovered delight with heaps to see and do.
• tinyurl.com/lortodilucania, apartments for two from €100 a night, dinner €25

Casa San Gabriel, Pierantonio, Umbria

Enjoy a glass of the estate's own wine on arrival, and pick produce from the vegetable gardens for your evening meal. B&B is available November to March, and self-catering during the summer, with supplies left for your first morning's breakfast. David cooks on Tuesdays, and Thursday is pizza night – your chance to use a wood-fired oven. The little "houses", each with its own terrace, are suitable for singles, couples or families. The bathrooms are so lovely you could spend all day in them. Perugia is only a 20-minute drive away. Return to the pool with views as far as Assisi, and a bottle of chilled orvieto.
• tinyurl.com/casasangabriel, B&B doubles from €85 (available November-March only), self-catering (villas sleep two, four or six) from €400 a week, dinner €25pp, pizza €15pp

Booking details at sawdays.co.uk

The Italian Lakes haven't given up all their treasures to tourists quite yet. Our writer reveals Orta, the enchanting lake the Milanese have kept to themselves

There is a code of silence that surrounds Lake Orta in northern Italy. Visitors are reluctant to tell others about its beauty for fear of increasing … well, the number of visitors. Indeed, it is astonishing how few people – even Italians – know about the place, and it is telling that the Milanese call it La Cenerentola (Cinderella) because they have long considered it the secretly superior sibling to the larger, money-blighted lakes of Como and Maggiore. But, for me, what sets Orta apart is not its beauty – though the place is absurdly pretty – but the lake's mysterious, ethereal, almost supernatural quality. There is something for the soul there as well as for the eye.

This is thanks in part to the architecture, in part to the enchanting island in its centre (of which more below), but most of all to the intimate drama of its setting: the way mountains, weather and light are forever in counterpoint to the water itself. Sometimes a preternatural stillness seems to rise from the deep. Sometimes fogs wreathe the surface, shrouding the island and the opposite shore. Sometimes the snow falls silent and heavy as if the sky has sunk never to lift again. Sometimes the fierce sun burns for days as if no other climate were even possible. And sometimes the föhn wind thrashes the lake into fury.

The light changes by the hour. Look out in the morning and there's a medieval mist; by noon, the lake is as clear as the Enlightenment; then, by five, a brooding romanticism has descended. You never want to leave.

My association with the place began over a decade ago when a member of my extended family discovered Orta San Giulio, the lake's principal town, and promptly withdrew the offer he had made on a London place to buy an apartment there. For the next few years, as he renovated the place, it was my good fortune to spend weeks at a time there working on my second novel and taking delivery of ovens, logs, taps and so on. In summer when the lake glistened silver-blue, I sat in the garden and worked in the shade. In winter I watched storms coming down the valley and turning the water the colour of slate.

The lake has always been popular with writers. In the 19th century, Friedrich Nietzsche, Samuel Butler, Lord Byron, Honoré de Balzac and Robert Browning all came here. A British-run poetry festival in September (poetryonthelake.org) has featured the likes of Gillian Clarke, the National Poet of Wales, and poet laureate Carol Ann Duffy. Poets from all over the world come to read and replenish and indulge their imaginations.

Orta San Giulio is built on the slopes of a steep hill (the Sacro Monte) that forms a peninsula jutting out into the lake. By day it looks longingly toward the beautiful island. By night, the gaze becomes even more amorous when the island is lit up and appears to float on dark water glistening with reflections.

Its narrow streets are all faded elegance and ochre charm, punctuated by sumptuous outbreaks of baroque. At one end of the square stands the town hall (1585); built on graceful columns – as if on stilts – it looks like the sort of place Caravaggio might have his cupid retire to sleep. A little up the hill, overlooking the many restaurants and cafes, stands the pale-peach parish church, the Chiesa dell'Assunta, founded in the 15th century. It looks like the sort of place where Monica Bellucci (playing a version of Mary Magdalene) would come to weep midway through an Italian film about an impossible affair.

The good news is that because Orta is far less developed than other lakes, there are a dozen small inexpensive hotels. The less good news is that they are in the main homely, family-run places with scalding-then-freezing showers and grumpy aunts on reception. Expect authenticity rather than service. The one exception is the slightly crazy Villa Crespi (Via G Fava 18, +39 0322 911902, hotelvillacrespi.it, doubles from €180), a lavish, four-star, Turkish-inspired castle-hotel, which, if you're feeling flush, has to be worth the indulgence. I've never slept there – my advice is to go slightly out of season and rent an apartment (try lakeorta.com, which has two-bed apartments from £390 a week) – but I did once take my partner to the two-Michelin-star restaurant for her birthday. The food was exquisite.

Over the years, I must have eaten at every restaurant in town. Villa Crespi aside, my tip is to keep it inexpensive and simple – pasta, pizza, charcuterie, fish and unfussy straight-to-plate antipasti. The more effortful tourist-aimed cooking strains to deliver. I used to go to either Edera (Via Bersani 15, +39 0322 905534), the world's most uncomplicated trattoria, or Pizzeria La Campana (Via Giovanetti 43, +39 0322 90211), where the plump matriarch is straight out of an Emile Zola novel.

Another good place for grilled meats (also simple) is Taverna Antico Agnello (Via Olina 18, +39 0322 905188), a rustic and atmospheric restaurant in an upper room, where we once had lamb chops for my father's birthday.

And what of the enchanted Isola San Giulio? Well, you can catch a boat to it all year round from the square, so it's an easy trip. The last time I was there, the villas and palazzos on the shore were lit by a low-slung evening sun in colours of pale sand and amber and terracotta and the lake was sparkling and swallows were wheeling on the water and I could smell the the flowers hanging from the balconies and trailing in the lake. (No, honestly, it really is like that.)

I was there to arrange a supper at the island's only restaurant, Ristorante San Giulio (Via Basilica 4, +30 0322 90234, ristorantesangiulio.it), in an 18th-century building with ceiling frescoes and a vine-covered lakeside terrace. Unfortunately, the food there is another modern Italian tragedy. Many people have spent hours tactfully pleading with the woman who runs the place not to destroy her ingredients by overcomplicating the cooking, but they have achieved little. Even an unassuming steak comes either raw or leathery, and I defy you to get a sauce. Still everybody goes – it is simply too beautiful a spot to pass up.

A circular interior path leads around the vast Benedictine monastery. In one direction, the signs say "the way of silence" and in the other "the way of meditation". The interior of the Romanesque basilica is an opulent and near-overwhelming feast of art and sculpture. There is a 12th-century pulpit carved out of serpentine marble from a quarry at nearby Oira; the figures on it are said to be influenced by Saxon carvings – I've never heard of this anywhere else in Italy.

I used to spend a lot of time looking across at the bell tower of this basilica (whose chimes drift across the water wherever you are in Orta). After I'd lapped the peninsula, I would run up the Sacro Monte for the spectacular view. At 360m above sea level and 100m above the lake, the jog nearly killed me, but it was worth it. The top of the hill was made a national park in 1980 and its woods and gardens (which hide a further 20 chapels, with more frescoes and statues) are the perfect place to get your breath back.

But my favourite thing to do in Orta is to go skinny-dipping with my partner at night, then to take her to Al Boeuch (Via Bersani 28, +39 339 5840039), a cosy candlelit old taverna on one of the back streets where Andreas serves too many delicious wines and too many tasty cheeses and platters of prosciutto and hot bruschetta. Don't tell anyone.

• EasyJet (easyjet.com) flies to Milan Malpensa airport (an hour's drive from Lake Orta) from Edinburgh, Gatwick and Luton from around £50 return

Edward Docx's latest novel, The Devil's Garden (Picador, £12.99), is available from the Guardian Bookshop, price £10.39

Marvel at amazing Giotto frescoes in Padua or explore ancient, tourist-free ruins near Rome with these recommendations from Been there readers on the best of Italian culture

• Add a tip for next week and you could win a digital camera

WINNING TIP: Cappella degli Scrovegni, Padua, Veneto

This chapel's renovated Giotto frescoes are breathtaking – every surface bursts with colour. Giotto was the first artist to portray Christ as a real person and the story of his life covers the walls. The entire wall above the entrance is covered by his terrifying depiction of the last judgement. Book ahead.
Piazza Eremitani, cappelladegliscrovegni.it, adults €13, children €6
KatharineSian

Liguria

Music in Ceriana
This medieval hilltop village has many attractions – fabulous food, mountain walks, but perhaps most unusual are the six choirs, famous for preserving their ancient regional singing tradition, involving polyphony – interweaving melodies. Go to the Easter festival, or even better the festival of Madonna della Villa in September, which starts with a torchlit procession to the chapel, and includes the choirs singing in the piazza. These are village events, not tourist spectacles, but the welcome to strangers is open and sincere.
comune.ceriana.im.it/en-GB
Squariall

Festa della Madonna del Rosario, Cinque Terre
When we arrived in Biassa last autumn, the small square in front of the church was packed with people of all ages and there were stalls selling local wine and chestnuts. Then a group of priests in green and gold robes emerged from the church, followed by the statue of Mary carried on the shoulders of half a dozen villagers and the rest of the congregation. The procession was accompanied by a group of musicians and we could hear it winding its way through the narrow streets of the village long after we left to continue our walk. It was a wonderful way to experience a tradition that dates back centuries.
lecinqueterre.org/eng
Ruby11

Piedmont

Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Borromean islands
All of the Borromean islands are magical, but Isola Bella, setting for the Palazzo Borromeo, is the crowning glory. The Borromean family employed the most accomplished architects and gardeners to transform a rocky crag into the setting for its magnificent baroque palace and Italianate gardens. A visit will provide a taste of how an aristocratic Italian family lived in the 17th century. The palace contains a wealth of treasure including paintings, sculptures and Flemish tapestries.
borromeoturismo.it, adults €13, children €5.50
Gdeanouk

Lazio

Etruscan Necropolis at Tarquinia
On a hilltop just outside the town are these painted Etruscan burial chambers which inspired DH Lawrence to write what was to be his final, most heartfelt travelogue, Sketches of Etruscan Places. Although there are more than 6,000 tombs, only about 15 are open to visitors each day. The wall paintings are surprisingly celebratory, depicting scenes of dancing, music, feasting and sex! The town's Tarquinia National Museum is devoted to Etruscan exhibits and sarcophagi excavated from the necropolis. Be sure not to miss the pair of winged horses from the pediment of a Tarquinian temple, one of the greatest Etruscan masterpieces ever discovered.
necropoliditarquinia.it, adults €8, children €4
KSRob

Ostia Antica, Rome
When the usual sites in Rome are heaving with people, Ostia Antica is a place of superb Roman sites which are blessedly peaceful. The site was once the sea port of ancient Rome but was silted up after the decline of the Roman Empire. Many buildings have been excavated and it is possible to spend a whole day here enjoying the sites and rural peace. We were there on a Saturday and it was not mobbed like the centre of Rome.
archeoroma.beniculturali.it/en, €6.50pp, free to under-17s (closed Mondays)
Nataiesgran

Veneto

Ca'Pesaro, Venice
This splendid gallery on the Grand Canal – inexplicably absent from many online Venice guides – houses a delightful collection of 19th and 20th century art (as well as a smaller Oriental Art Museum on the top floor). While the great majority of the works are by Italian artists possibly less well-known to a general audience, some big international names are also represented, with fine pieces by Klimt, Chagall, Kandinsky, Klee and Moore.
Sestiere Santa Croce, capesaro.visitmuve.it/en/home, adults €8, children €5.50
StanleyAccrington

Lombardy

Ambrosiana library and art gallery, Milan
If you only have time to see one gallery in Milan, make it this one. Set up in 1618, it is home to more than 1,500 paintings by artists such as Raphael, Luini, Titian, Caravaggio, Botticelli and Bruegel. It also has a large collection of work by da Vinci including his Codex Atlanticus. The building is a fine example of Lombard architecture, with mullioned windows, frescoed walls and vaulted ceilings. The visit ends in the library, rich in manuscripts, notably Homer and Virgil.
Piazza Pio XI, ambrosiana.eu, from €10
KSRob

Tuscany

Mugello
Italy is all about culture – the place simply oozes art and history – but if you are seeking a more modern cultural experience I recommend a visit to the Moto GP – Italian style: Mugello in July. The passion of the crowds is contagious and you will certainly learn a lot about Italians.
motogp.com
Sallyyoung

Rome's at its best in spring – the trees are blossoming, the flowers are blooming and it's not yet too hot to set out on an urban trek. This walk takes you up one of the city's hills and into a beautiful park

This blogpost first appeared on the Young in Rome blog

There is no place like Rome in the springtime. The sun is shining, the air is warm, the trees are blossoming, and the flowers are blooming. La primavera arriva! And if, like me, you get antsy for some outdoor activity when the weather gets this good, skip the jog and go on an urban trek.

I love walking the streets and hills of Rome (and there are some hills, let me tell you) and I've chosen one of my favorite "city hikes" here: Up the Gianicolo (Janiculum hill in English) and ending in Villa Pamphili, Rome's largest and most verdant park. Get ready for gorgeous look-outs and some of the city's greatest greenery. Best of all, urban trekking is FREE!

Starting point: Piazza della Rovere

Ending point: Villa Pamphili

What to Bring

• A few euro for a coffee or beer while soaking up the view over all of Rome

• Frisbee (or something for playing in the park)

• Your trekkin' shoes!

Beginning at Piazza della Rovere, near St. Peter's Basilica, head up the hill (it is a hike after all). This street is Via di Gianicolo, and it's up the Gianicolo hill that we're heading. Although one of the tallest hills in Rome, the Gianicolo is not one of the famous seven. Clearly, this was a mistake of the ancient Romans as this hill rivals all others for beauty and scenic look-outs.

As you ascend, you'll pass the Pontifical North American College on your right (behind whose walls lies the most beautiful soccer field I've seen in Rome where, apparently, the Swiss Guard take the North American priests-in-training to town).

Continue winding up the hill and enjoy your first glimpses over the entire city.

Stay to your left and instead of following the Via di Gianicolo the whole way up the hill, head up the stairs, the Rampa della Quercia. This will bring you up into the Gianicolo Park and even better scenic view points.

Follow the path and enjoy the view. Make sure to notice the huge statue of Anita Garibaldi on your right, baby in one hand, gun in the other, hair flowing, clothes billowing as she gallops on her horse out of the city. This fiery Brazilian woman was keen fighter and rider and battled alongside her lover, Giuseppe Garibaldi, who led Italian forces against the Austrian Empire to reunify Italy (the first time since the ancient Roman Empire) in the 19th century.

There are several benches and places to sit along the way so take a "pausa" and buy a coffee or beer at one of these. Relax and enjoy the stunning views over the city. Point out the dome of the Pantheon, the Vittore Emmanule II Monument (aka "Wedding cake"), the many domes that grace the cityscape, the ancient Roman ruins down by the Palatine and Capitoline hills, and the hills in the distance.

Refueled and reveling in images of Rome's expanse and beauty, continue on your way through the cypress tree lined street, the Passegiata del Gianicolo. Passing through a large gate, you'll hit Via Garibaldi. If you're up for a detour, take a left and check out the awe-inspiring Acqua Paola, fountain of Pope Paul V (who finished the construction of St. Peter's basilica in the 17th century).

If not, take a right and head up Via Garibaldi. Take a peek down Via Angelo Masina (on your left) for a view of the American Academy in Rome, where scholars-, artists-, and architects-in-residence muse, create, and study in a beautiful villa and garden.

Continue going straight past Arco Antico (one of the best restaurants in Rome) up Via di San Pancrazio. Check out the undulating architecture on your right (don't you just love Rome sometimes??) and then head into Villa Pamphili. Originally the private villa of the wealthy Pamphili family, the land is now Rome's largest park.

Go now while everything is blooming. White blossoms bedeck trees and leave blankets of pedals on the grass below, towering Umbrella Pines provide patches of shade…this park is truly never-ending.

Explore! Throw your frisbee! Bathe in the sunshine!

If you're too tired to walk back down the hill, jump on the 870 bus at the stop next to Arco Antico, which will bring you back down to Piazza della Rovere.

Happy hiking and let me know how it goes!

These B&Bs and hotels are all perfectly placed for enjoying the sights of Florence on a spring city break

Choice is not the problem when deciding where to stay in Florence, as walking through the centre, it seems that every other house, appartment block or palazzo is masquerading as a hotel, pensione or B&B. But finding the right price can be another matter, especially when you start checking out the tempting residenze d'epoca, upmarket B&B's that can cost more than a luxury hotel. Below are 10 of the best deals, but bear in mind that prices vary enormously from high to low season, midweek to weekend. All these addresses include free WiFi and breakfast.

Novecento

It is a long trek up three flights of stairs that ends in a jungle of plants at the door of this four-room B&B, but it is worth the effort. This converted attic appartment is definitely a bit cramped, but the rooms themselves are comfortable, and the welcome could not be more friendly from the owners, an Italian Japanese couple, Franco and Sawako. The surprise comes when they take guests up a final stairway that leads to a wonderful rooftop terrace which is so close to Brunelleschi's Duomo that you feel you could reach out and touch it.
• 10 Via Ricasoli, +39 055 214138, bbnovecentofirenze.it, double from €80

Bed and Breakfast Four Rooms

Almost at the foot of the Ponte Vecchio, this cool, modern B&B, is located in a retro 1960's flat, with minimalist furniture and bright colourful interiors. The owner is Signora Eva Vocino, a German restaurateur who provides a complimentary bottle of Vin Santo wine and traditional cantucci biscuits in each room. There is a spacious breakfast salon with an equipped kitchen that guests can use at any time, which can be a big plus if you don't feel like going out for a meal but prefer to eat-in at the B&B, bringing home a pizza or cold cuts and salad.
• 2 Borgo Santi Apostoli, +39 055 212676, bbfourooms.com, double from €100

Sani Tourist House

Right in the heart of medieval Florence, just by the house where Dante lived, the Sani is a simple, no-frills address, and very reasonably-priced. The owners do not serve breakfast, but guests get a voucher for the nearby Cantinetta dei Verrazzano, an historic wine bar. There are six rooms in the B&B, but it is also worth checking the availability of an adjoining appartment that they also rent out, with two bedrooms, lounge and kitchen, which is priced at around €160 a night.
• Piazza dei Guochi 1, +39 335 8224133, sanibnb.it, double from €60

Relais Cavalcanti

The Cavalcanti is housed in a rather grand medieval palazzo, looking out over the Mercato del Porcellino and the Palagio di Parte Guelfa. It used to be the family home of two sisters, Francesca and Anna, but a couple of years ago they transformed the place into a roomy B&B. The decoration is very 'palazzo', with antique wardrobes and gilt-edged mirrors, but the rooms don't quite match up to the elegant reading salon and breakfast room. Breakfast is a self-service affair, but open all day.
• 2 Via Pelliceria, +39 055 210962, relaiscavalcanti.com, double room from €90

San Frediano Mansion

Over on the less touristy Oltrarno side of Florence, this B&B is on a funky street lined with artisan ateliers, wine bars and cheap trattorie. The 'mansion' is actually part of a grandiose but slightly run-down 15th-century palace, and many of its 11 rooms are quite enormous, with high ceilings painted with swirling frescoes. Although there are rooms available from as little as €45 a double, note that they are 'without a view', which one guest just checking out explained that it meant 'no window', so not really adviseable.
• 8 Via Borgo San Frediano, +39 055 212991, sanfredianomansion.com, double room from €65

Martin Dago B&B

The Sant'Ambrogio neighbourhood is the hippest part of Florence, a bit like the Bastille in Paris, with its own food and flea market, late-night cocktail bars and a mixed multicultural population with a mosque and synagogue as well as churches. Several rooms in the B&B are split-level duplex, with the loft bed beneath wooden beams or frescoed ceilings. On the roof is a plant-filled terrace with views over the city and Tuscan hills, great for sunset drinks and al fresco breakfasts.
• 84 Via De'Macci, +39 055 2341415, martindago.com, double room from €95

Hotel Universo

The Universo is a rarity in Florence, a bright, modern hotel, with the feel of a boutique property but with much more affordable prices. Location is perfect too, right opposite one of the city's most beautiful churches, Santa Maria Novella, and a couple of minutes' walk from the main train station. The concept running throughout the hotel is a vintage 1970's style, from the wallpaper to the furniture. Worth checking the surcharge for the rooms with a balcony and view of the Church and its lively piazza.
• 20 Piazza Santa Maria Novella, +39 055 293890, hoteluniversoflorence.com, double room from €90

Hotel Relais Il Cestello

Situated on the bank of the Arno, on the Oltrarno side, the Cestello has been upgraded from a B&B into three-star hotel, but prices remain reasonable, and the 10 rooms are both comfortable and spacious. The reception lobby doubles as the breakfast salon, with an ancient stone firepalce and wooden-beamed ceiling. All the tourist sights from the Duomo to the Uffizi are 10 minutes' walk away, but staying here is an oasis of peace and quiet compared to the crowds in the city centre.
• 9 Piazza Di Cestello, +39 055 280632, relaisilcestello.it, double room €90

Hotel Scoti

The Scoti has been a favoured haunt of backpackers for a good many years, and has maintained its old fashioned family-run 'pensione' ambiance compared to more recent B&B's . The prices have gone up recently, but then guests don't have to share bathrooms anymore, and it's almost worth staying here just to be able to use the charming communal sitting room, decorated with quite incredible 17th-century frescoes. Hidden away in a 16th-century palace, with a rickety lift, the Scoti is right on Florence's prime shopping boulevard.
• 7 Via de'Tornabuoni, +39 055 292128, hotelscoti.com, double from €80

Hotel Loggiato Dei Serviti

For a relative splash-out it is well worth checking the prices at this romantic hotel, hidden away in one of Florence's most beautiful squares, which is virtually free of all the tour groups who crowd the nearby Piazza Santa Croce. The Loggiato was originally a convent for a monastic order, dating back to 1527, and the rooms are quite sumptuously decorated. The hotel is surprisingly large, with 38 rooms.
• 1 Piazza della Santissima Annunziata, +39 055 289592, loggiatodeiservitihotel.it, double room from €150

If you know a good place to stay in Florence, please share it by adding a comment or posting a tip on Been there

Secluded beaches, the best family-run trattoria and welcoming places to stay … Been there readers suggest their favourite places around Italy's coast

Add a tip for next week and you could win a digital camera

WINNING TIP: Atrani, Campania

The town of Atrani is approached on a viaduct wide enough to be a small park. From the balustrade at the back of it you can see straight down to the piazza. Around the square the houses cram, piled on each other, a dense mass threaded by passages and arches and many flights of steps – but only one street. Walk through the nearby tunnel and you'll emerge in another town, the larger, and more famous, Amalfi. amalficoastweb.com
lymeregis

Campania

Agerola
Inland from Amalfi is the town of Agerola, which has stunning sea views. There is lots of walking: try, for example, the popular Sentiero degli Dei (path of the Gods). There are buses to Amalfi, or you can walk down 300 steps to the beach at Duoglio. The Beata Soltitudo is a campsite with bungalows and a hostel.
+39 081 802 5048, beatasolitudo.it
helencarr

Regina Giovanna beach, Sorrento
An old man told me that this beach, about 30 minutes' walk from Sorrento, was so secluded he used to go there with his wife to make love. It was where Queen Giovanna of Bulgaria used to sunbathe naked in the 1920s. It's like no beach I've been to: caves, boulders, lagoons and rock pools reached by wild paths and risky climbs. Drive towards Amalfi and there's a sign for Bagni della Regina Giovanna on your right.
aleshaoner17

Amalfi coast by boat
Hiring a small motorboat in Amalfi harbour was an amazingly affordable and relaxing way to explore this coast. We had no experience, but the hire process was simple and the boat easy to manoeuvre. We found a lovely spot to drop anchor and sunbathed in complete privacy. This was a highlight of our three-week trip to Italy.
LauraMcC

Liguria

Varigotti
I go to Italy every year as my father lives near Asti, but I couldn't believe it when we happened on this seaside idyll last year. Varigotti is a tiny place, with no railway station, just west of Savona. We stayed in a chalet at San Martino campsite, where we cooked pasta and ate at moonlit wooden tables. You can walk down a steep path to the village for breathtaking views.
+39 0196 98250, campingsanmartino.it
animella

Thermal waters at Pigna
These thermal pools are devoid of tourists and casual visitors because they are off the beaten track. On days when it's hot and humid and the beaches are teaming, you can pick a pool, enjoy the clear waters and live dangerously going down small rapids. It's about a 20-minute drive north from Dolceacqua.
izzyb

Camogli
Camogli is a sun-bathed and laid-back fishing village on the Riviera di Levante, a short boat trip (or a longer, spectacular hike) from the more famous and touristy Portofino. Up the hill, Villa Rosmarino (doubles from €140) offers a warm welcome, designer interiors and stunning views of Camogli and the coast to Genoa. In the evening you can stroll down past the pastel-painted houses to the numerous harbourside bars and watch the sun set behind the lighthouse before sampling the delicious local pasta.
+39 0185 771580, villarosmarino.com
CTDevon

Puglia

Al Trabucco da Mimí, Peschici
Perched on a promontory off the unspoilt Gargano peninsula, this ramshackle eatery has sea on three sides. The real draw is its awesomely fresh fish, some of which is caught from the restaurant's own trabucco, a Puglian contraption that drops nets into the teeming waters.
+39 0884 962556, altrabucco.it
OtterClaire

Sicily and other islands

Ristorante Il Gabbiano, Taormina
This seaside restaurant is the best I have eaten at in 11 years of travelling around Italy. Fresh fish, stunning scenery, it is Sicilian dining at its best. Located overlooking Isola Bella, a lush island nature reserve below the chic resort town of Taormina, Il Gabbiano makes the most of its setting with several beautiful terraces. It specialises in seafood. We ate king prawns, sardines, squid, and beautiful fresh fish baked over charcoal and filleted at our table, served with a fresh lemon, olive oil and herb dressing. It typifies what I love most about coastal Italy: great food that is simple, plentiful and found in unassuming, roadside restaurants which hide stunning seaside views.
+39 0942 625128, ilgabbianoristorante.it
ccitalia

Villa Sara, Taormina
This welcoming B&B (from €45 a night) clings to the hillside above Taormina. Huge balconies overlook the bay and Giardini-Naxos. Reward yourself after climbing back up the hill after dinner with a bottle of wine and fireworks. Etna may be kicking off, or on 8 September, manmade fireworks mark the feast of the Madonna of Giardini.
+39 0942 28138, villasara.net
NorthernBint

Lampedusa
This small island, close to Africa, is the southernmost tip of Italy. Its pretty beaches are mostly empty outside July and August. Snorkel with manta rays, watch dolphins from a boat, or hire a bike. Loggerhead turtles lay their eggs on the Isola dei Conigli (Rabbit Island), and a nature reserve hides megalithic sites. If you visit, don't forget to pack Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa's literary masterpiece The Leopard – his grandfather used to own the island.
For ferries from Sicily see usticalines.it
LizCleere

Tuscany

Viareggio
The short walk from the train station to the beach takes you past a variety of shops, restaurants and beautiful architecture. On arriving at the beach you will find at least three miles of golden sand propped up by many hip and trendy bar-restaurants. A day trip to Viareggio complemented a stay at the stunning nearby city of Lucca, which is only 40 minutes away by train.
ryanmccolluk

A week's walking in the Alps of Italy and Switzerland doesn't have to mean nights in basic, and rather grim, refuges. Descend into the valleys each evening and you can dine and sleep well in pretty boutique hotels. At least that was the plan …

Since dawn, we have been hiking across a glacier riven with crevasses, along a narrow path we hope will bear our weight. It is freezing cold, and hard going when the slippery route ascends steeply. At the top the wind drowns out all sound and the air is thin, but a final, shivering traverse brings us to just below the rocky summit of the Klein Matterhorn, at 3,883m. There, automatic glass doors slide open to reveal a restaurant and a gift shop full of Japanese tourists buying cuddly marmots.

That's the thing about the Alps – they are grand, wild, dangerous, and yet, unlike the wildernesses of the US, Scandinavia or even Scotland, they have been farmed for centuries and are full of villages and ancient trading footpaths. This means that no matter how extreme your trek, you are never far from a decent restaurant, shop, or – increasingly – a stylish little hotel. The trick is finding them.

Last summer I decided to spend a holiday doing the Tour de Monte Rosa, a classic long-distance hike around Switzerland's highest mountain, through the Swiss and Italian Alps, among 10 peaks over 4,000m. The joy of the Alps is that the footpaths are so well-established that it is possible to dispense with guides and group tours, and go independently, so I bought maps and guidebooks. Invariably they recommended staying in walkers' refuges each night (it's a trip of at least eight days). But being somewhat averse to smelly dormitories full of snoring men, I wondered if there might be an alternative.

It took a lot of research, but after many evenings poring over maps and websites, my boyfriend and I devised a route that deviated slightly from the classic tour, but allowed us to stay at small boutique hotels – most of them fairly new, and costing little more than the one refuge to which there was no alternative, the Rifugio Teodulo above Zermatt, which charged us €45 each.

We start not in the major ski resort of Saas Fee, as many do, but in neighbouring Saas Almagell, a smaller Swiss village easy to reach from Geneva (train to Visp, then a bus) and home to the Hotel Pirmin Zurbriggen. Swiss tradition meets contemporary design at this revamped four-star with spa run by the family of ski-racing stars Pirmin, Heidi and Silvan Zurbriggen. We dine among their medals on "green cappuccino" and haddock and potato cakes served by waitresses in dirndls, in a room decorated with industrial chandeliers by way-out Swiss designer Heinz Julen.

Our first day takes us into Italy's Piedmont region over the 2,868m Monte Moro pass, named after the Moors who invaded the Saas valley in 939AD, and left a legacy of Moorish place names (and, say locals, noses).

The scenery is like I'd imagine a TV advert for anti-depressants. Wild flowers, sunshine, Christmassy pine trees, cows with giant bells, waterfalls, lurid green fields and the milky blue Mattmark lake. Then the anti-depressants wear off and it's scree slopes, boulders and cloud, up to the huge golden Madonna statue at the top of the pass, where walkers start saying buon giorno! instead of grüss gott!

The brutal peaks of the Monte Rosa massif occasionally appear through the clouds while we eat our picnic of bread, ham and pickles, bought from a Swiss supermarket for £12 that morning, which seems a rip-off when we go for a beer in the cafe at the top of the cable car from Macugnaga, and see truffle pasta on the menu for €7. Italy is clearly much better value for money than Switzerland, for those converting from pounds.

Macugnaga is beautiful, with its ancient flower-decked chalets beneath the sheer east face of the massif and western Europe's second-tallest peak, the 4,634m Dufourspitze, Monte Rosa's summit. But the poshing-up of the Alps seems to have passed it by, and it feels like nothing has changed since the 1950s, including the hotels.

We have booked a room at the Zumstein, where the landlady leads us past a dismal old people's home lounge to our room, which is dusty as a tomb. We can't bear to hand over £100 for this so do a runner, ending up instead at the Hotel Flora, which is slightly better, even though the landlady refuses to let us see a room first, insisting, "No! It is bellissima!" When we return from dinner at the ungodly hour of 9.20pm, we have to be let in by the night watchman. Macugnaga is a funny little place, tinged with sadness – there are far too many young adventurers buried in the moving mountaineers' cemetery beside the 600-year-old Chiesa Vecchia.

The joy of starting a walking day in Italy is buying your picnic. The village has a deli stocked with dozens of salamis, mountain cheeses, chocolates and cakes, which set us up nicely for the strenuous day ahead, a 16km slog over Colle del Turlo (2,738m), passing forests and turquoise whirlpools. It is early September, a wonderful time to hike because most days are warm and sunny, and the lower slopes are covered in wild berry bushes. There are raspberries, strawberries, and blueberries everywhere, and the thought of what they would cost in Sainsbury's means I just can't pass without picking.

The old Roman path at the top is surprisingly well-preserved, with neat slab steps. The weather turns misty and rainy, as it often does at the summits, but I'm distracted from impeding misery by a sudden flurry of movement from some German hikers coming the other way. Unlike the busy Tour de Mont Blanc route, the Monte Rosa is quiet, especially at this time of year. Encounters are rare, and we have seen only two other people all day; even so, the enthusiasm with which the Germans are waving seems excessive. Then I spot him. Between us on the misty track stands a magnificent steinbock, or Alpine ibex, with great curling horns.

The eight-hour hike ends in Alagna, the most beautiful Alpine village I've seen, tucked into a narrow, steep-sided valley. It's totally bling-free, its dark wooden buildings housing only small delis, dairies, gelato shops and cafes, its churches painted with frescoes. Hikers often stay at the pretty Rifugio Pastore on a grassy plain under the south wall of the Monte Rosa, but we have set our sights four kilometres further down the valley at the Tre Alberi Liberi, a wonderful family-run B&B, stylishly decorated and reasonably priced, in Riva Valdobbia.

We must look a bedraggled mess when we arrive because lovely owners Elena and Roberto rush to dry us and warm us up, show us our cosy larch-floored room and give us drinks, and even the keys to their car, so that we can drive to the nearest restaurant still open, in Alagna. La Marmotta has delicious ravioli, rösti, and Langhe Nebbiolo wine, perfect service, and Elena's guests get 10% off.

Fresh homemade peach cake, blueberry tart, smoothies, bresaola and cheese make a feast at breakfast, and then we cheat, accepting a lift (well it is raining) from Roberto up the Vogna valley as far as the rocky track will take us, to the hamlet of Peccia. Most Monte Rosa trekkers take the Passo Salati for this section, but the Vogna is prettier, less spoilt by ski lifts, and allows us a stop at Alpe Lareccho, an agriturismo with a cafe in a tiny wooden hut. There are shoes lined up against the woodburning stove in the corner, a bra hanging above it. The family who live there all summer have a pot of soup on the go, board games and spirits line the shelves, and it is very hard to drag myself back out into the rain.

The day turns grim – the only really rainy one of the trip. We walk uphill in torrential rain for three hours. I am soaked to the skin, cold, and my feet are covered in blisters. Visibility's non-existent and we don't have any food. I am like a pilgrim of old: exhausted, hungry, weak, desperate for a kindly refuge. And this being the Alps, of course, there is one. Ospizio Sottile, on the border of Italy's Piemonte and Aosta regions, which I fantasise will feature a sauna, soft blankets, Michelin-starred linguine ...

When we reach it I strip off all my clothes in the draughty chapel (sorry lord), change into dry ones (a perk of carrying all your clothes on your back) and bound into the dining room. What's on the menu, we ask the two young men who live up here for months by themselves. "Well, we have soup …" Yes, I think, yes! And what else? Lasagne? Roast chicken? But that's it. Just watery vegetable soup. Mine has one pasta hoop in it, and they have run out of bread.

After lunch a steep, wiggling descent takes us into Gressoney, a large ski town with many hotels, but we have opted to hike up the other side, to Alpenzu, where there's a particularly lovely refuge, dating from 1779. I have made an exception for it because it has private rooms. We arrive at 7.20pm, almost 12 hours after setting off (thank god we accepted the lift). The sheets look and feel like Wundaweb, the iron-on stuff you hem trousers with, and there are no towels, but the food is fantastic: cured meats, grilled courgettes and aubergines, cheese and saffron knefflene (a local pasta), salad, sausages and steak, then four types of cheese. We eat it all and really need it.

The next night's meal is even more fantastic, at a gem of a hotel, Frantze Le Rascard, in the small Walser settlement of Val d'Ayas on a hillside above the ski resort of Champoluc. The Walsers are the people who first inhabited these high pastures, emigrating from south-west Germany in the 1400s and 1700s. The hotel is in a traditional Walser building dating from 1721 and accessible only on foot or by ski lift, but has been made luxurious, with a sauna, shutters with heart-shaped holes, and gorgeous bedrooms in the former hayloft.

Dinner is incredible – mocetta (air-dried beef, more herby than bresaola) with battered courgette flowers, farfalle with mascarpone, homemade gnocchi and thinly sliced beef, then brown-bread semifreddo with honey.

By this time we are well into the swing of the trip, more nimble on our feet, fitter, happier, in love with the landscapes and the ancient way of life – up on the highest pasture, farmers spend all summer with their cattle, as they have for centuries. We have developed habits – dangling our wet washing off our rucksacks to dry in the sun, two lunches a day, long stops for marmot watching, photos and chocolate at every summit, an afternoon pint. Each day we walk for between six and eight hours, up and over moutain passes of around 3,000m. Sometimes we talk, or make up games, or sing. I frequently zone out and it feels like meditation, restorative.

A skiers' cable car takes us down to Champoluc next morning, and we are on our way back to Switzerland, up a gorgeous valley to the linked ski resorts of Italian Cervinia and Swiss Zermatt. The Matterhorn is visible now, and we spot other famous glaciated peaks, the Weisshorn and Breithorn. After several hours' climb, passing ice-blue lakes and summery plains, we are faced with a bizarre moonscape, JCBs and pylons on the plateau that links the resorts. It's a huge, ugly thing to cross, and we make the journey longer by doing a 30-minute detour to use the loo at a cafe, the Gran Sometta, which turns out to be closed.

The family who own it are doing renovations. "So sorry, we have no water!" says the mum. "But please, have a drink, come in! We never see people up here in summer!"

They insist on showing us round, won't let us pay for our Cokes, and are so disappointed that we don't think we can carry the bottle of wine they really want to give us as a gift, that they insist we return in winter to drink it.

That night is refuge night, at the Rifugio Teodulo, 3,317m up on the Theodul Pass, which connects the two countries. It is fantastic to stay somewhere so high, and somewhere so important to mountaineering history, one of the classic refuges in this area where the sport began. We have our dormitory to ourselves, the views are staggering, and it is fun and sociable (everyone gets a bedtime shot of génépi to send them to sleep). But as expected, the scratchy blankets are covered in hairs, the food is poor and the bathroom horrible (we queue to clean our teeth at the one working tap while a man washes his feet at it).

But this stretch feels like real adventure, crossing the snowy glacier, avoiding crevasses, seeing one of the most astonishing mountain panoramas in the world: Monte Rosa, Mont Blanc, the Matterhorn, Breithorn and hundreds more peaks surround us.

Zermatt, with its Indian TV crews, crowds of tourists, megabucks price-tags and luxury hotels comes as a shock, and though we spend a rest day there, in bars, and the brilliant new museum, we can't wait to be back in the wilderness on deserted paths.

Rather than head back towards the Saas Valley in the east via Grächen, we head west, taking a train to St Niklaus, a cable car to Jungu, then hike east to Gruben, to stay at the historic but simple Hotel Schwarzhorn, before ending our epic journey with a final night in luxury, at the charming hotel Bella Tola in St-Luc. The spa has taxidermy above the pool, antiques complement floral wallpapers, cowhides and antlers abound, and after several nights in villages without such options, I have to appreciate the vision of the hotel owners who have created such beautiful, contemporary places to stay in such remoteness.

Of course, no matter where you stay, this is an incredible walking route, and it is the mountains that make it so. Our trip over, we take one final look out from our luxurious room, back up the valley to the stupendous Matterhorn, and agree no amount of interior design wizardry can compete with that view.

This year's Milan Furniture Fair combines traditional craftsmanship with clever technology – to superb effect. Becky Sunshine chooses her favourite design innovations

The Milan Furniture Fair, held every April, is arguably the most intense week on the design calendar. If your world is rocked by chairs, a nice lamp or some unfeasibly expensive made-to-order piece of furniture, this is the place to be. It's the scene of frenzied trend spotting, where a huge amount of business is conducted, concepts are trialled and vast quantities of prosecco are consumed. This year, despite the economic climate, the crowds were in (more than 300,000 people descended on Milan for the week). Chatter at the endless cocktail parties was that dramatic new directions were few and far between (save some softer colour palettes, a hint of 70s styling and a taste for comfort in the form of loose upholstery and quilting – perhaps a sign of a need to nest), but instead there were loads of collaborations, such as Lenny Kravitz and Philippe Starck for Kartell or Dror Benshetrit for Tumi luggage and a focus on new technology versus traditional craft techniques (think 3D printing up against handmade furniture). The Royal College of Art showed excellent graduate work, but leading the charge was the ever-brilliant Tom Dixon, who nabbed the entire Museum of Science and Technology to host his new creative centre, Most, which was jam-packed all week.

Here are five designs which stood out from the crowd…

Crystal Bulb by Lee Broom (pictured)

For his first Milan solo exhibition, London-based designer Lee Broom created an old-school wood-panelled public house ("We drove the entire thing by truck from the UK to Italy," says Broom) to showcase his furniture and launch the Crystal Bulb. Made in collaboration with Cumbria Crystal, the delicately hand-blown lead crystal bulb can be screwed into any standard ceiling, wall or lamp fitting (you can change the little bulb inside). "It has a really nostalgic feel that I love," Broom says. From £109. leebroom.com

Bell Table by Sebastian Herkner for ClassiCon

This year there seemed to be a return to traditional techniques. A nice example is young German designer Sebastian Herkner's glass-and-brass table, which was hand blown by 450-year-old Bavarian glass specialists Poschinger. "I've turned the usual way of seeing glass tables upside down," says Herkner. "The foot is made of glass on which the metal body lies. I'm fascinated by the inversion of materials." Available in three colours. From £1,300. classicon.com

Cast 001 by Sally Mackereth

This table was one of the most stroked pieces of furniture in Milan this year. From a distance a simple monolithic, modernist table and seats, but up close an unexpected textured surface. "As an architect I've always been told to trust the truth of materials," explains London-based Sally Mackereth, "but the untruth of this material makes it intriguing." In fact it's a beautifully cast form made from a liquid composite concoction of stone and metal which is then poured into a custom cast before being polished by hand to reveal the fine texture of the metal fibres. The table and seats are made to order in old gold, pewter and bronze colours in finishes including shagreen (stingray skin). Stools from £1,000; table from £15,000. cast001.com

SodaStream Source by Yves Béhar

San Francisco-based Swiss industrial designer Yves Béhar has reworked the classic machine (remember "Get busy with the fizzy", anyone?), creating a great-looking product you'd actually want on your kitchen counter. Gone are some of the tricky functions of old: the noise function is less flatulent, there is a simple push-down top section which activates three carbonation levels, and the bottles now lock into place. Available (from November) in white, black, red and blue. From £70. sodastream.com

Flora wallpaper by Gucci and Cole & Son

Always a huge draw during the furniture fair is Wallpaper* magazine's Handmade exhibition, for which designers and brands are commissioned to create one-off pieces, some of which find their way into production. One highlight was a collaboration between Gucci and Cole & Son for the Flora digital printed wallpaper originally designed by illustrator Vittorio Accornero in 1966 as a scarf for Grace Kelly. Current creative director Frida Giannini resurrected the print in 2006, but now rescaled and recoloured. The wallpaper specially created for the exhibition was screen-printed using 16 screens at Cole & Son's north London factory. Fingers crossed this makes it into production. cole-and-son.com