World view: Behind the masks at Venice carnival
Prepare to party, incognito. A customer is fitted for mask and outfit at Ca’ del Sol workshop in Venice. The city’s carnival runs until 28 FebruaryContinue reading...
View ArticleDa Vinci's vino: a visit to Leonardo's vineyard in Milan
While painting the Last Supper, Leonardo would retire to his small vineyard across the road. After being badly damaged in the second world war, the vines are flourishing again and the house is open to...
View ArticleIan Kelly on Venice: ‘Casanova’s story takes you to the city's best views'
The Casanova biographer, whose work has inspired a new ballet, finds plenty of traces of the 18th-century lothario amid the city’s canals, bars and alleywaysWriters from Casanova to Byron and Ezra...
View Article‘I always come back from Chianti a kilo or two heavier'
Colin O’Brien, author of a new book about the Giro d’Italia, celebrates the Tuscan region’s enduring legacy of cycling heroes and simple-but-superb food, as well as its working class rootsThere’s...
View ArticleItaly on a budget: live la dolce vita at affordable restaurants, hotels and spas
Italy is a nation that loves a bargain, so follow the locals’ example and explore great-value food options, low-cost hotels and cheap – or free – beaches and spasItalians really know how to stretch...
View ArticleItaly's sleeping beauty: 400-year-old castle near Venice brought back to life
Close to Padua and less than an hour’s train ride from Venice, Castello del Catajo is an enormous newly-restored medieval fantasy with, so far, few foreign visitorsIt’s amazing, given the millions who...
View ArticleGrazie mille, maestro: Monteverdi’s Venice
The 450th anniversary of Claudio Monteverdi’s birth is the cue for a year of music in his home townA raunchy Beyoncé video blaring from a tiny bar’s TV might seem an unlikely backdrop for an earnest...
View ArticleAfter the earthquake: Umbria's culinary magic is winning back visitors
Two powerful earthquakes laid waste to parts of central Italy last year, but resilient producers in fabulously foodie – and beautiful – south-east Umbria are determined to look forward, not back‘Would...
View Article10 of the best restaurants in Italy: readers’ tips
Whether you want the Neapolitan pizza once savoured by Julia Roberts or simple rustic cooking, our readers have travelled all over Italy discovering wonderful, authentic places to eatEnter next week’s...
View ArticleGiro d’Italia: 10 great restaurants en route, and places to watch the race
The 100th Giro, which started this week, races from Sardinia to the Dolomites. For cycling correspondent Colin O’Brien, the journey is also a gastronomic pilgrimageFollowing a grand cycling tour as...
View ArticleA wine romance: veal and vermouth in a traditional Turin watering hole
It may be a simple tavern, but Caffè-Vini Emilio Ranzini has a history of doing the basics wellIn a backstreet behind Turin’s teeming Porta Palatina market, “Vini Ranzini”, as locals call this famous...
View ArticleEurope’s hidden coasts: the Maremma, Italy
This stretch of southern Tuscany is chic but discreet – disappear into the dunes, discover beguiling coves and stay on rambling estates amid stunning scenery More hidden coasts: France | Portugal |...
View ArticleTaormina in the spotlight: Sicily's noble but risky plan to host Trump and...
Donald Trump, Emmanuel Macron and other G7 leaders meet in Taormina this week. How is the already tourist-choked town preparing – and can it cope?Tucked away on a natural terrace between rocks and...
View ArticleVenice world heritage status under threat
While the local population dwindles, passengers from giant cruise ships continue to flood into La Serenissima. So how are locals trying to save the city?A monster cruise ship meets a giant octopus and...
View Article10 of the best restaurants near Rome’s major attractions
Eating near the Eternal City’s famous landmarks needn’t mean tourist menus and pricey pizza. These handy trattorias and wine bars will still leave some change for the Trevi fountainCarb-load at Be.Re....
View ArticleThe crazy Calabrian celebration of stodge | Nell Frizzell
Two Italian brothers are bringing their home town’s tradition of cooking for the masses to London. Nell Frizzell reportsI’m standing beside a very large man in a very small Italian football kit, his...
View ArticleAll in a roe: the secret of Sardinia’s bottarga
Cabras lagoon in the island’s south-west is home to prized bottarga, cured and air-dried grey mullet roe that’s perfect as a nibble or grated over pastaStill think spaghetti carbonara is best made with...
View Article10 of the best new summer activity holidays in the Alps
From ziplines in Switzerland to walking holidays in Italy and France, plus mountain bike breaks and an outdoor festival, the Alps are worth a ‘peak’ this summerCar-free family ski resort and outdoor...
View ArticleGreen fields and Garda: a snapshot of Trentino, Italy
In our weekly look at people’s travels through three Instagram images, photographer Kilian Schöenberger views northern Italy from on highContinue reading...
View ArticleSkip Rome's queues and entrance fees and visit a baroque masterpiece
The Church of St Ignatius of Loyola is an oasis of calm in Rome’s tourist central showcasing wonderful trompe-l’oeil frescoesA couple of minutes’ walk from the crowds surrounding the Pantheon, Piazza...
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